New South swell!!
Everywhere good!!!
Lucky day!

i flew in yesterday morning from japan. Ambo-san flew in yesterday afternoon from mexico. he calls me, we go surfing, and have a great time. it was Ambo-san’s first time to hawaii and also his birthday! super stoked to celebrate it with him riding awesome waves! score! and to think we met for the first time a few months ago in el salvador. this is surfing.

i was walking behind Eri-chan in japan and couldn’t believe how black her legs were! OMG! too much surfing honey girl!

photo by Matsu. people watching in sendai.

i love the little eating parts of sendai. so cool!

i really wanted to buy this foot massager in japan after feeling so good after my massage. i was thinking it would go good right under my desk. it was on sale for 35,000 yen or about $291. i come back to hawaii and check how much it costs here? omg! it was 60,000 yen or $495. omg, i should have bought it in japan! next time, for sure!

one of my dreams was to become a salary man in japan. but after catching the train once to tokyo during rush hour, i changed my mind and decide to become a professional surfer instead. it was that instantaneous.

and after becoming a professional surfing and surfing the JPSA contests for 2 years in waves like this, i decided to become a soul surfer instead. to be honest, chasing points at contests all over japan in waves like this, i knew it wasn’t for me. now 20 years later, i can say it was the best decision of my life for both jobs. i traveled the world, i met so many friends, and have experiences i will treasure for life. thank you Takami-san for sending me this photo of the contest last week in chiba. it really made me realize i made the right decisions in my life.

Video Music Awards: OMG, I can see everything!!!
Good morning 6am.
Ala Moana waist high with sometimes a chest high set. Very clean!
Diamond Head shoulder high and perfect. Best spot.
No wind so perfect conditions.
Sunny and very warm.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!