omg, the swells continue! usually we have 4 or 5 swells in a whole summer, but this summer, we’ve already had 10 to 12. and guess what? more and more are coming and coming! pulled up to the beach this morning and seen some sets well overhead. solid 4′ plus and super good! so stoked!!! almost everybody is burnt out because everybody is saying “go, go.” and me, i “go, go.”

super cool to surf with Kat this morning. a super good musician, a super good person, and a super good surfer. i was surprised to see some huge sets break over her head and and she comes up smiling? huh? tough girl!

time to tune up my equipment. make sure everything is working good so there are no excuses.

i like taking things apart and putting it back together. all the while dreaming of catching a big fishy.

had a roast duck/charsiu mini plate from Alicia’s. so cheap and so good!

i’m tired of almost running over so many turtles. how do i fix that? simple, raise the seats.

can’t find a big enough foam so stuck two thick boards together. this should work as i will be sitting 3 inches higher.

then some paint to protect the wood. this was the easy part. now i have to install it in the blazing hot sun. get ready to sweat tomorrow.

i use to have a lot of time doing things like this. now i’m busy doing other things so going back to my roots is very rewarding. just taking my time, fixing things, making things better, and enjoying every minute of it.

to the women’s japan team: PLEASE WIN THE SEMIFINALS!!! i want to watch USA vs. JAPAN this weekend in the finals! i’ll be happy with whoever wins that one!

there is a gelato place down my street that is very popular. i went there when it first opened last year and really didn’t care for it. i guess you can say it was average? then i heard it got better recently. so after a long hot day in the ocean, i went to cool down last night. long line with many happy people.

there are so many different flavors. i chose the milk tea flavor. pretty good and yes, way better than last year.

and always tastes better when eating it with family. my little cute nephew Noah Jr.

surfers are still pushing the limits. i’d call this 30′ hawaiian scale, or 65′ regular scale. either way, HUGE!

full moon rise at tantalus. one of the best views in the world!

a terrorist pulled onto a resort beach, took out his machine gun, and killed as many tourists as possible. this use to be things we would only see in movies, but now, it’s all too real.

Why? because nowhere is safe anymore. you fly to a country and sip a martini on a resort beach, then this happens. there are more and more terrorists being born into this world. anything can happen at any given time. so please enjoy your life and live it to the fullest. you just never know when your time will come.

The worlds biggest swimming pool! In Chile. So amazon!
Good morning 5:30am.
OMG, South shore perfect!!! Epic!
Head high sets at Ala Moana and super good.
Diamond Head overhead and super good.
Everywhere super good in the morning then onshore later today.
No wind.
No clouds.
Only sun and very warm.
The perfect surfing day in Hawaii.
Have a wonderful day and see you in the water.