had a wonderful time yesterday with 2 wonderful families. their 3rd time to hawaii but first time surfing. nervous in the beginning, but super stoked in the end.

Yoshiharu-kun on his very first wave! stood right up and rode it perfectly. only 11 years old and surfing into diamond head. wonderful!

then after his first wave, i got to see his real smile. a smile only a surfer can understand.

then it was Mizuki-chan’s turn. first wave and stood up too. perfect balance!

then Akari-chan was up. first wave and perfectly surfed.

another real surfers smile. i love it!

then i took the mothers out. 1, 2, 3 and up Inoue-san went. awesome!

then Kubota-san same thing. 1, 2, 3 and up! so stoked to get all 5 of them up on their first wave. surfing after that was super fun and easy.

what another perfect day in paradise. i love summers in hawaii because it’s warm, sunny, and everybody is so happy. and guess what? summer has just begun! Go-Naminori!

Man vs. Great White
Good morning 6am.
Chest high sets at Ala Moana.
Head high at Diamond Head.
Waist high at Waikiki.
Trade winds at 20mph so clean conditions.
Super sunny and warm.
Surfing all day.
Have a wonderful day!

woke up this morning and received photos on LINE from Naomi-san. always happy to hear from my great friends in ishinomaki! Hiyori-chan just performed a traditional japanese dance. something i’ve always wanted to see for myself. couldn’t make it this time but so happy to experience it through these wonderful photos.

awesome dance Hiyori-chan! hope to see you all very soon! keep on culture, and keep on smiling!

had another wonderful day today. took the kids with their mothers surfing for their first time. so stoked to see all 5 of them stand up on their very first wave. here is Mizuki-chan, Akari-chan, and Yoshiharu-kun getting ready to surf the big waves today!

after surf, we went to buy poke bowls. then drove over to the beautiful kapiolani park to enjoy a peaceful lunch. it was so beautiful!

a very wonderful family! i’m so happy to have met the Inoue-san family and Kubota-san family today. pure kindness from Kyoto, Japan.

yes, every direction you look, hawaii is gorgeous. a photo for the everlasting moment.

so cool how surfing brings out the best smile in everyone. we had so much fun laughing so hard in the ocean. laughing at each other, and laughing with each other. many awesome photos downloading right now.

then went to my friends house in Hawaii Kai to watch the boxing match. he lives right on the marina so he can park his boat right in his back yard.

took the small boat for a ride inside the marina.

gosh, i love to be in the water. and gosh i would love to live here someday.

we drove to the end of the marina. then i saw a place i use to hang out with my high school friends. we use to come here to a place called “uluwatu’s.” a great place for skate boarding, and a great place to hang out and make trouble. i actually use to sit on that wall 35 years ago today. fishing, crabbing, and laughing. gosh, it brought back some amazing memories.

then drove around the marina more as i look into the houses and dream. gosh, i would love to live here someday.

gosh, i would love to live here someday. haha. that’s the 3rd time i said that. but really, gosh, i would love to live here someday. wake up, jump on the boat, go surf, come home, drink beer, and love life even more! $1.5 million and that dream can come true!

then we pull the boat back to my friends back yard. walk up a few steps, and start watching the fight. good food, good drinks, good boxing, good laughter, good house, and good friends.
sleep at 9pm again, wake up at 5am and so the same thing over. good night.