Man vs. Great White
Good morning 6am.
Chest high sets at Ala Moana.
Head high at Diamond Head.
Waist high at Waikiki.
Trade winds at 20mph so clean conditions.
Super sunny and warm.
Surfing all day.
Have a wonderful day!

woke up this morning and received photos on LINE from Naomi-san. always happy to hear from my great friends in ishinomaki! Hiyori-chan just performed a traditional japanese dance. something i’ve always wanted to see for myself. couldn’t make it this time but so happy to experience it through these wonderful photos.

awesome dance Hiyori-chan! hope to see you all very soon! keep on culture, and keep on smiling!

had another wonderful day today. took the kids with their mothers surfing for their first time. so stoked to see all 5 of them stand up on their very first wave. here is Mizuki-chan, Akari-chan, and Yoshiharu-kun getting ready to surf the big waves today!

after surf, we went to buy poke bowls. then drove over to the beautiful kapiolani park to enjoy a peaceful lunch. it was so beautiful!

a very wonderful family! i’m so happy to have met the Inoue-san family and Kubota-san family today. pure kindness from Kyoto, Japan.

yes, every direction you look, hawaii is gorgeous. a photo for the everlasting moment.

so cool how surfing brings out the best smile in everyone. we had so much fun laughing so hard in the ocean. laughing at each other, and laughing with each other. many awesome photos downloading right now.

then went to my friends house in Hawaii Kai to watch the boxing match. he lives right on the marina so he can park his boat right in his back yard.

took the small boat for a ride inside the marina.

gosh, i love to be in the water. and gosh i would love to live here someday.

we drove to the end of the marina. then i saw a place i use to hang out with my high school friends. we use to come here to a place called “uluwatu’s.” a great place for skate boarding, and a great place to hang out and make trouble. i actually use to sit on that wall 35 years ago today. fishing, crabbing, and laughing. gosh, it brought back some amazing memories.

then drove around the marina more as i look into the houses and dream. gosh, i would love to live here someday.

gosh, i would love to live here someday. haha. that’s the 3rd time i said that. but really, gosh, i would love to live here someday. wake up, jump on the boat, go surf, come home, drink beer, and love life even more! $1.5 million and that dream can come true!

then we pull the boat back to my friends back yard. walk up a few steps, and start watching the fight. good food, good drinks, good boxing, good laughter, good house, and good friends.
sleep at 9pm again, wake up at 5am and so the same thing over. good night.

even though i was only gone for 6 days, i really missed hawaii. missed the warm weather, cool trade winds, nice waves, and my lovely job. paddling out is always the best part because i always know what’s going to happen very soon. i’m going to ride a wave!

Yoshida-san never rode a single fin before so i let him use my magic board. a magic board i only let a few ride. it’s almost like letting someone borrow your girlfriend. haha. from his first wave, he was ripping! ripping on my baby.

gosh, the waves were so good all day long yesterday. perfect rights and perfect lefts. perfect for a single fin kind of day. Yoshida-san pulling into a pretty nice barrel looking right at diamond head. beautiful!

i love photos like this. it’s as close to the action you can get. it’s real, it’s fast, and it’s furious.

want to thank Bob-san from Bob’s Surf in Tokushima for introducing Yoshida-san to me. a true surfer, and a true smile. keep on surfing guys!