Saturday November15日 2025年

Blueroom by Zac Noyle

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it’s so weird how small this world is. i was getting ready to jump on a train to somewhere yesterday morning when i get a text from my good friend Matsu. he tells me he’s in kyoto! omg, so close. so i decided to cancel all other plans and hang out with Matsu who’s been my friend for the past 23 years. we went to a cool yakitori restaurant about 10 minutes by taxi from kyoto station. it was awesome! had a great time like always talking about the past, present, and future. great timing Matsu!
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if you visit kyoto, you should visit this yakiniku restaurant. Sot-ly-laisse is pretty close to kyoto station and one of the best yakitori restaurants i’ve ever been too. good quality food, very clean, and pretty cheap.
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but if you go, you better make reservations.
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i’m walking in the rain coming back from the temple yesterday when i get a text from Bobby. he said “did you see the surfingmag.com article?” i said “no.” then he sent me a link. i opened it and found me in the blueroom. remember i told you about my 7 hour surf session just a few days ago? i anchor the boat right in front of big rights, paddle to the lineup, and before i could say “hi” to everybody, a super perfect big wave was coming right to me. i keep on paddling, take off, and pull into the nicest Aqua blue barrel. i was deep, i was calm, i was happy, i was right in the place i wanted to be. 5 seconds later, i fly out of the barrel, totally stoked, and totally satisfied. all this in less than a minute. it’s amazing on how a minute can change your whole day and life. luckily, the worlds best water photographer Zac Noyle was out and shot this photo. definitely a keeper for me. now it’s on the most popular surfing website and millions of people get to see my blueroom barrel. it’s just a barrel to many, but it’s more than that to me. thanks Zac for the awesome photo and for letting me relive a great moment in my life.

500 DEGREE AIR? REALLY?

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went to the Fushima Inari Shrine yesterday. a very amazing place to visit in kyoto.
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i love old japanese architecture. just so simple, but yet detailed and beautiful.
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sometimes i wish i can read kanji.
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and someday i hope to find out the true meaning for things like this.
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things like this capture my attention. i’m guessing this is how it use to be a very long time ago in japan. i wish it could return and if it did, i’d live in it for sure. just so beautiful.
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this really blew me away. thousands of “torii” lined up perfectly for hours. felt cool walking through it. a definite power spot.
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if you haven’t’ been here before, it is definitely worth the trip to kyoto.
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cool.
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i went off the trail to the mountains. wanted to sit under a tree listening to the cool sounds of nature.
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ate my lunch right here. then it rained and i had to leave.
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so stoked to see Seth Moniz making the highlight reel on the main page of surferthemag.com. check out this incredible air by the young up and coming kid! go-seth!
CLICK HERE FOR SETH MONIZ HUGE 500 DEGREE AIR!

Culture


Deep culture.
Feel the power.
Feel the spirit.
Amazing!