
it’s so weird how small this world is. i was getting ready to jump on a train to somewhere yesterday morning when i get a text from my good friend Matsu. he tells me he’s in kyoto! omg, so close. so i decided to cancel all other plans and hang out with Matsu who’s been my friend for the past 23 years. we went to a cool yakitori restaurant about 10 minutes by taxi from kyoto station. it was awesome! had a great time like always talking about the past, present, and future. great timing Matsu!

if you visit kyoto, you should visit this yakiniku restaurant. Sot-ly-laisse is pretty close to kyoto station and one of the best yakitori restaurants i’ve ever been too. good quality food, very clean, and pretty cheap.

but if you go, you better make reservations.


i’m walking in the rain coming back from the temple yesterday when i get a text from Bobby. he said “did you see the surfingmag.com article?” i said “no.” then he sent me a link. i opened it and found me in the blueroom. remember i told you about my 7 hour surf session just a few days ago? i anchor the boat right in front of big rights, paddle to the lineup, and before i could say “hi” to everybody, a super perfect big wave was coming right to me. i keep on paddling, take off, and pull into the nicest Aqua blue barrel. i was deep, i was calm, i was happy, i was right in the place i wanted to be. 5 seconds later, i fly out of the barrel, totally stoked, and totally satisfied. all this in less than a minute. it’s amazing on how a minute can change your whole day and life. luckily, the worlds best water photographer Zac Noyle was out and shot this photo. definitely a keeper for me. now it’s on the most popular surfing website and millions of people get to see my blueroom barrel. it’s just a barrel to many, but it’s more than that to me. thanks Zac for the awesome photo and for letting me relive a great moment in my life.
Blueroom by Zac Noyle
500 DEGREE AIR? REALLY?

went to the Fushima Inari Shrine yesterday. a very amazing place to visit in kyoto.

i love old japanese architecture. just so simple, but yet detailed and beautiful.

sometimes i wish i can read kanji.

and someday i hope to find out the true meaning for things like this.

things like this capture my attention. i’m guessing this is how it use to be a very long time ago in japan. i wish it could return and if it did, i’d live in it for sure. just so beautiful.

this really blew me away. thousands of “torii” lined up perfectly for hours. felt cool walking through it. a definite power spot.

if you haven’t’ been here before, it is definitely worth the trip to kyoto.

cool.

i went off the trail to the mountains. wanted to sit under a tree listening to the cool sounds of nature.

ate my lunch right here. then it rained and i had to leave.

so stoked to see Seth Moniz making the highlight reel on the main page of surferthemag.com. check out this incredible air by the young up and coming kid! go-seth!
CLICK HERE FOR SETH MONIZ HUGE 500 DEGREE AIR!



