when i went to pick up Fujita-san and Mariko-san this morning, i was so confused! the most confused in a while because i didn’t know what to do. the waves and wind in town were terrible! so terrible that no body was in the ocean! the worst it’s been in a very long time. so i ask them “hey, want to gamble? if we surf in town, we can have fun, but it will be very challenging. or if we go to the east side, there might be no waves or it might be too windy, so maybe no surfing.” Fujita-san said “let’s gamble!” that made me happy because when it comes to surfing, i like to gamble.

we pull up to the east side at a very local spot. i was thinking it would be crowded but i was totally wrong! nobody was out!!! perfect head high waves and straight off shore. we unloaded the boards and got ready to paddle out.

it felt like we were in two different worlds! south being so ugly, and east being so beautiful. Mariko-san was very nervous but after a few waves, the nerves went away and she surfed so good.

only the 3 of us in the whole ocean there. where was everybody? score!

Mariko-san caught so many good waves. great balance and great surfing.

then i went to the outside and seen Fujita-san on some really good waves. i could tell he was stoked!

i’m usually looking at diamond head, but today i was looking at jurassic park. it was so beautiful.

this was a pretty big wave Fujita-san took off on. super long rides and super fun waves.

i had such a great time. something very different today. in fact, i haven’t surfed out there in a very long time. we took a big gamble and we won the lottery! for our level, this was guarantee the best spot on the island.

welcome to jurassic park east oahu.

we were the first guys out. then 5 locals came out. still uncrowded, but we had our fair share. as we were leaving, it started getting crowded and super windy. the timing was perfect today. thank you Fujita-san and Mariko-san for the amazing day! i bet you are sleeping very good tonight. and wanted to say hello to the rest of the Oiso Surf Boys!
i came back to town and went to yoga. i couldn’t be in a better place mentally right now. another great day in the book of blogs!

Morning
Offshore
Sunny
Clean
Empty
Good Wave!
Score!

growing up here in hawaii, i never thought the world had a rubbish problem. i thought it was just common sense to throw rubbish in trash cans. hawaii is very clean, and that’s how i thought the world was. it wasn’t until i went to japan till i noticed a lot of trash on the beaches. then when i went to indonesia, i was in shock. then after going to the philippines, i was in total shock. i traveled throughout asia and it blew my mind on the rubbish problem and how uneducated people are. still till this day, i will never forget the image of the staff throwing over the big rubbish bags into the ocean at night. total disbelief.

the report came out today that there are 8 million tons of plastic in our ocean. that is 16,000,000,000 pounds, or 7,257,477,920 kilograms of plastic floating in the sea right now.

30% of the plastic pollution comes from china. number 2 is indonesia, followed by number 3 philippines. i’ve never been to china before but if there is more plastics in the ocean than indonesia or philippines, that’s scary. we live in a plastic world and scientists say that it will be 10 times worst by 2020.

one major problem are plastic bags. they get caught to marine life and kill them. i’ve seen this with my own eyes many many times.
so what are we doing about it? well, i’m proud to say that hawaii has stepped up to ban plastic bags. yes, there will be no plastic bags starting july 1, 2015. that’s a huge step in the right direction. i just hope other countries will follow. then our ocean will be a cleaner place for the generations and generations to come.