Monday November10日 2025年

Surfing El Salvador: Secret Beach Break

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el salvador was supposed to be a vacation for me. a time to relax, a time to take it easy, and a time to take it slow. but i don’t know how to take it easy and slow. once i got there, i was on an adrenaline buzz and wanted to see everything, do everything, and feel everything. so that’s what happened every day. fill up our rent a car and head to the beach before sunrise.
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i still can’t believe this 17 year old boy was our guide. he drove so slow and carefully. sometimes dangerous but i guess he still has a lot of learning to do. but i trusted my life in his hands and thank goodness we didn’t crash. Charlie reminded me of Toda-san for some reason. a big boy with a big heart.
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gas in el salvador cost more than hawaii. $3.95/gallon to be exact. and we rented this car from a local guy near our hotel for $35/day.
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it’s such a cool feeling to experience the beginning of a new day in another country. different colors and different feelings.
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luckily Charlie didn’t hit the cows, pigs, dogs, goats, and all the other animals that walk in the middle of the street.
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there is a very long stretch of beach that has beach break after beach break. barreling a-frames everywhere.
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we found ours and had it to ourselves all morning long.
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there would be hundreds of surfers on this wave if it was in hawaii and japan. unbelievable.
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we paid $2 for car security while we surfed. well worth it.
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and we got to see daily fisherman lifestyle.
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after our surf, we went to eat ceviches. in fact, we ate ceviches everyday. it was excellent!
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i couldn’t read the menu because it was in spanish. so i just pointed to something i thought was fish. it ended up being a mixed plate of shrimp. the bummer thing is i get a sore stomach if i eat too much shrimp. big mistake.
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then we went walking around in the fish market. very interesting.
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i wish you could smell what i smelt. very very fishy stinky.
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i really missed japanese food. so getting this fresh bag of rice from Saito-san made me really happy. good with my raw egg and natto breakfast.
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and got another treat. didn’t know what this was until i opened it.
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thank you Nishi-kun for my favorite mochi with kinako. i love it!
got about a thousand more photos on my desktop. expect lots more to come. have a wonderful day.

Fresh Honeymooners!

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had a really great time with Minemura-san and Yurika-san. just a young happy honeymooner couple having fun in the sun.
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this is Yurika-san’s first wave! great balance, and great smile!
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Minemura-san surfing great with a big smile.
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side view ala moana.
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peace!
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had a great time with you Minemura-san and Yurika-san. hope you enjoyed surfing, heaven’s beach, poke bowl, and lots of laughing. take care and keep on surfing.

March 16, 2015 Hawaii Surf Report


Ocean’s Love in Hawaii TODAY!
Good morning 6:10am.
North shore 2-4′ and perfect. Super clean off shore.
South shore waist high. Sometimes chest high sets and very clean. No wind so perfect conditions everywhere.
Cloudy morning becoming super sunny and warm.
Ocean’s Love for the Kids Day!
Have a wonderful day!