opps, forgot to post this 2 days ago….

i set my alarm for 4:30am but end up waking up at 4am. just so excited because there is a high surf advisory, and the buoy jumped up a lot late last night so i knew the waves were going to be big. big, but crowded because it’s a weekend. i get on the freeway for the 50 minute drive.

i get to haleiwa and it was pitch dark. not a single soul or car there. i think i got there to early. haha. i park the car and look at the waves. i couldn’t see anything but i could hear the thundering of the waves. it sounded 15′ hawaiian or 30′ faces. i started getting butterflies in my stomach.

i came this early so i should paddle out this early. i see the moon shining on the ocean so i grab my board and paddle out in pure darkness. to tell you the truth, i was a little scared, but at the same time, more excited than anything. the adrenaline flowing thinking about the huge waves, strong current, and big tiger sharks. i get to the outside, see a big wall building as the moonlight drew a line on its face, i turn around, paddle, take off, and rode my first ever wave in pitch dark haleiwa. i knew it was big but couldn’t actually see how big it was. then i paddle back out and a huge 10′ freak set breaks on my head. that was my cup of coffee. now i was really awake! rode 4 waves all alone hoping somebody would paddle out. then i see Hayato and i don’t think i ever felt happier to see him. haha. 6-8′ solid haleiwa with bigger freak sets. we caught so many good waves and had a dream north shore morning session!

then i came in and talked story with the boys. it felt like a long day and was getting late, but it was still 8:50am. happy local haleiwa surfers with a great start to a great day.

then as i was leaving, there wasn’t any parking left. packed with surfers from all over the world. i forgot that the north shore is the mecca of surfing. i’m glad i got up early, or should i say, i’m glad i got up the earliest.

then the drive home is always happy. just smiling to myself and thinking how lucky i am. it’s still 10am and i have a full day ahead.

got my camera and took some photos. it went from zero to 30 in 2 hours.

then people started dropping in on each other.

again and again. there is only supposed to be one person per wave. the guy riding in the front has very very bad surfing manners.

yes, the waves were perfect if you have the wave all alone. but if some guy drops in on you, it’s not so perfect anymore. it got so crazy that i had to put my camera away and leave.

then i see a huge whale jump and luckily got the photo.
if you ask me how i feel now, i feel great. i had one of the best surf sessions of my life at haleiwa. big huge waves making it feel so good doing carves on. it was like a canvas for a painter. i can’t wait to do it again.

maintaining a boat is probably the hardest thing to do, especially when it’s parked in the harbor 24/7. the sun hits it and fades the paint, the salt water hits it and rusts things out, and the barnacles and algae start to grow on the bottom. you have to be dedicated and work very hard to upkeep it in perfect condition. it’s been a year since Mayuki’s been in the water and if you seen it now, you will think it’s still brand new. it takes time and money, but when you’re riding so freely in the ocean, it’s worth every minute and every penny.

i scrub the bottom about 2-3 times a month. most people pay somebody to do this. it costs about $40-50 each time. when the day comes to scrub the bottom, i skip my daily exercise at home, and do it in a productive way. i take her out to the blue sea, anchor her in front of a surf spot, and i put on my mask.

i get a scrubbing pad, and get ready for the ultimate workout.

i usually start off with the sides. it gets my heart beating fast and my blood flowing.

then i take my deep breaths and go upside down. usually 1 minute 30 seconds each breath scrubbing and scrubbing. i do round and round, then go back and do more rounds and rounds just to make sure i didn’t miss anything. people usually use scuba, i use my lungs. the best workout ever. and if you don’t believe me, i’ll take you with me next time and you can help. haha.

then when she’s all clean, i grab my surfboard and ride a few waves into the sunset. great workout and saved some money. that’s a great way to live simply.
photos by Naoka

Haleiwa 8′ and abunai!
Feel so good!
Round 1 done!