Tuesday September16日 2025年

Young Ladies and Young Turtles

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yesterday was just another beautiful day in the ocean. i just can’t seem to get enough!
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the waves were good all day long too. head high sets and strong off shore winds.
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took the girls out for a ride. lot’s of screaming and lot’s of laughs.
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perfection!
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then we seen some turtles so we pulled over, threw the anchor, put on our masks, and swam with nature.
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had a blast with these young ladies.
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there was one turtle that kept on swimming right up to me. just looked me in the eyes, and smiled. it was like i was talking to the turtle. what another amazing day.

October 12, 2014 Hawaii Surf Report


Japan: The power of a Super Typhoon.
Good morning 6:50am.
North shore 3-5′ and good. Pipe/Backdoor, Rocky Point, V-Land all good. South shore swell continues. Bowls shoulder high and good.
Trade winds at 20mph so clean conditions.
Super sunny and warm with cool trade winds.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

Fire Reef Burns

i still can’t believe how much i’ve been traveling recently. these past 5 years has been crazy! jumping on an airplane feels like jumping in my car. after my last trip, i told myself “i’m going to stay in hawaii for a while and settle down.” that’s what i tell myself every time i get back. well, things have changed and i’ll be on another airplane in less than 2 weeks. where, when, and why? your guess is just as good as mine.
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been spending a lot of time at the Yamari house. just a gathering place for family and friends.
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and been spending a lot of time elsewhere too. this ryokan was so cool! a room overlooking the ocean.
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and yeah, not only hawaii has power spots. this is a super power spot in japan and Eri-chan is soaking it all up.
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the very first time i went to the banyaks 6 years ago, all i remember was the razor sharp reef and fire coral. with the group of 13 of us this time, i knew there were going to be some reef collisions. it’s shallow and very sharp. just ask the 5 people that got cut. here is Matsu with his first tattoo from the banyaks!
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first you squeeze a lime to kill the living reef organisms, then you go visit Dr. Al and get the scrub down with the ointment. it stings!