ok, i came back to hawaii and expected it to start getting cold as we near winter. it’s already october and the temperature and water should be getting cooler. i was wrong. it is hotter than before i left. and it is hotter than summer. the month of september was the hottest month since the 1940’s. and this month of october will surely break more records. perfect waves on the south and north shores as our endless summer continues. i’m so happy!

ok, some government officials want to rename “Sandy Beach” after our president. “President Obama Sandy Beach?” are you kidding me? just because President Obama bodysurfed there before, they want to rename the beach after him? the reasoning is to create more tourism. i’m totally against that! i grew up at Sandy Beach and it’s one of the only untouched stretch of beach left on this island. leave the beach and leave the name as it is. go rename Waikiki after the president, not Sandy’s.

had a great time with Naganuma-san this morning. he surfed much better than last year and i was stoked to surf such perfect waves with him this morning. uncrowded and super glassy!

then we had Oxtail Soup and the famous Asahi Grill. thank you Mr. and Mrs. Naganuma for spending a wonderful morning with me. take care and see you again next year!

i was craving oxtail soup and this bowl made my stomach very happy.

then in the afternoon, it was time to take care of my baby. before i clean the bottom of the boat, it was recommended to me that i take her out to the ocean and go full speed ahead. so if you seen a beautiful white boat called “Mayuki” speeding around outside waikiki this afternoon, that was me. then i threw out the anchor and surfed Bowls again. what an awesome surf day! feels good to be back in the ocean of paradise!

then went to TasteTea for a milk tea to cool me down.

and yeah, the beautiful sunset to end the beautiful day. going to eat some sukiyaki, take a shower, and sleep early like a baby. tomorrow is another long day in the ocean. i can’t wait! goodnight.

had a wonderful time with this wonderful crew. want to thank the staff and crew on The Dream, and also want to thank my family of friends. now we are much closer and we built relationships that can’t be broken. To: Kimura-san, Toda-san, Takami-san, Kyle, Cathy, Kekoa, Al, Travis, Tiare, Maki, James, and Matsu, i will never forget all the precious memories we had. I love all you guys!!!

on any trip, i just wait and wait for a barrel. it’s always been my dream to be in the barrel as much as possible. all that barrel time made me a very happy person. this is treasure island. a perfect right hander with 3 barrel sections. what an amazing wave. photo by Ryan Robson.

i was walking along this long white sandy beach. a wave broke on the shore and came up to my feet. i look down and see something. i pick it up and was amazed to see it was a baby nautilus shell! OMG! a Treasure from Treasure Island! so happy!

super typhoon 18 hit japan hard. Toda-san and Takami-san got home safely the night before, and woke up to this. crazy!

mother nature never stops. from volcanos, to typhoons, to tsunamis. please enjoy every precious moment of your life.

i watched this movie on the way home from malaysia. it was amazing! i passed by Robben Island 15 years ago when i was in south africa. i didn’t know who Nelson Mandela was back then, but i do now. watch it and learn what this amazing man did for his people.
Mandela: Long Walk to Freedom
at the end of the movie, here was Mandela’s words. it was very touching.
No one is born hating another person.
People learn to hate.
They can be taught to love.
For love comes more naturally to the human heart.

Hong Kong Demo: Mace in your Face!
Good morning 6:20am.
North shore 2-4′ and clean.
Rocky Point looking really good.
South shore chest high.
Diamond Head best at shoulder high and clean.
No wind so perfect conditions.
Super sunny and another very warm day.
Going surfing!
Have a wonderful day!