For lunch today.
$8 from Yama’s.
Go-Hawaiian!

had a great time surfing with the boys yesterday. Isono-san, Ken-san, Rocky, and Kami-san all cool guys with surfing in their hearts. since the waves and wind were weird yesterday, we ended up surfing at diamond head and come to find out, it was the best spot in town.

Isono-san surfs really good. back and forth from shonan to miyazaki, and to other surf spots around the world, this guy has experience. super cool guy and super cool surfer. check out the beautiful diamond head in the background.

Ken-san caught so many sets. he was just waiting for the big ones and caught most of them. he surfed until his arms couldn’t paddle any more.

Kami-san on the nice bottom turn. he caught so many long waves too.

Rocky was smiling all day long. just a really happy guy to be surfing! pure stoke!

all great guys and such a great session. good weather, good waves, and good people. hope you boys enjoy your last day in hawaii.

then we went to eat their first “poke bowl.” after talking story, i found out these guys know a lot of people i know. so wanted to say hello to Satoshi at “On the Beach” in miyazaki, Matsuo at “Rise and Shine” in chigasaki, and Kaneko-san in fukuoka. what a great surfing world we all live in! hope to see you all again soon. thank you for a wonderful day of memories.

Kim Kardashian cover on Paper Magazine. OMG! Is that real?
Good morning 5:45am.
North shore up again. 6-8′ and Reef Haleiwa Pro ON start 8am!
South shore tiny and junky. Flat to knee high at Ala Moana and chest high at Diamond Head. No winds become light and weird. Onshore in the late morning. Sun, clouds, rain, and weather changing all day.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!