Sunday November23日 2025年

Rainy Days and Drones

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there was one morning when we woke up to a storm. so many things happened that day. from a indonesian boat shipwreck, to lone survivors, to glassy barrels, to dangerous shell picking, to wet everything. but the good thing is that we really needed the rain water to fill back up the boats water tank. now we can finally take a shower again! Toda-san and Takami-san wondering what to do on this beautiful rainy day.
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for me, i love the rain. i love to keep cool, keep wet, and keep calm. the rainy weather and dark days makes me feel so relaxed.
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then a few of us went for a storm surf. riding a wave on razor sharp reef with the rain stinging your eyes is exciting! i had fun.
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Toda-san brought his drone and took some amazing video. a different angle that only the birds and eagles can see. toda-san just put together a short video of our trip and when i watched it last night, i felt like i was there again. it made me happy, it made me smile, and it made me want to go back into my dream again. i miss that lifestyle.
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the video should be uploaded soon so you all can see. Toda-san is just putting the finishing touches with some cool background music. check out this shot from his drone of me riding a perfect wave. stay tuned for much more to come!
and if any of you want to get some drone footage of yourself at your local break or on a dream surf trip, Toda-san will be able to provide you the best service. i’ll get you his information soon. aloha.

October 14, 2014 Hawaii Surf Report


Last nights beautiful sunset!
Good morning 6:10am.
North shore down to 1′. Next North/West swell Saturday at 10′. South shore swell continues. 1-3′ and good.
Strong trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny sky and very warm.
Surfing morning and afternoon.
Have a wonderful day!

EXHALE: Must watch for Freedivers

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had a great time surfing with Abe-san from Ishinomaki this morning. i couldn’t believe how good he got. this is the 3rd consecutive year and Abe-san’s surfing is getting better and better. so stoked to see him ride so many perfect waves this morning. when we took this photo, it was raining. yeah, super sunny blue sky but raining? only in hawaii.
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yesterday and today was supposed to be heavy rain. somebody made a mistake in the forecast. and i want to thank him for that.
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thank you Abe-san for the wonderful day and wonderful treats. hope to see you either in Ishinomaki or Hawaii again soon. keep on smiling!
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i’ve been looking around for a place to stay. my friend is coming to hawaii in november so i thought it would be better for him to live with foreigners in a local style kind of living. i found a nice place in kaimuki kind of near my house. much more relaxing than waikiki.
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a private room in a local house cost around $700 to $1,300/month. this room is in between at $1,050/month. not bad huh?
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here is another saying i keep on my desktop. “IF IT’S MEANT TO BE, IT WILL BE.” i’m a firm believer that everything happens for a reason. good or bad, things happen and we just have to accept it and move forward. we can’t force things to happen, we can’t plan things to happen, things just happen. that’s how i live my daily life and that’s what gets me through the good and bad times.
last, check out this video of 2 free dive buddies trying to go deep to chase a prized fish. i do this many of times and after watching this video, i might think again before exceeding my limits. “IF IT’S MEANT TO BE, IT WILL BE.” but for these guys, “IT WAS NEVER MEANT TO BE.” lucky he is alive!
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lP_9aWr4pJU[/youtube]