yesterday was a very emotional day for me. Banba-san just got out of the taxi in waikiki straight off a flight from japan. he introduced himself and i was pleased to meet him. Banba-san is from Fukushima prefecture in Minami Soma. it was 3 years ago when our We Are One team first went to Minami Soma. there is a cool village fronting the surf spot called “Kita Izumi” that got completely wiped out from the tsunami. and to make things worst, it’s right in the circle of the radiation evacuation zone. only a few miles away from the fukushima power plant that leaked and is still leaking radiation into the air and water. when our team went there, Banba-san was looking for us. our paths didn’t cross then, but did now. when i met him today, he told me where he was from, what happened, and how thankful he was for our team.” we paused, i looked into his eyes and could see the emotions, we are both grown men but there is nothing wrong with crying. i’m not ashamed at all. back during out missions, it took a lot for me to hold in my tears, now, i can’t anymore. i don’t know if it’s my way of healing or not, but it feels good to connect with the very people we went to help. we hugged, and even though i could have stayed there all day talking story to Banba-san, i knew we had to jump into the ocean to surf. why? because we are surfers. we paddle out to perfect bowls, catch some super good waves, and even though i spent only 2 hours with him today, i felt the connection. i have 2 more days surfing with Banba-san and i’m looking forward to listening, talking, laughing, wave riding, and healing. as for me, it was very hard emotionally in the beginning but i knew there would be a rainbow in the end. it’s just starting now as i see the bright colors starting to glow. i am very happy and very proud of my team for all the effort and support for the people in tohoku. today was a great day for me. We Are One Forever!
ONE: Minami Soma Surfer in Hawaii
June 11, 2014 Hawaii Surf Report
Very close landing. Suntanning on the beach could be dangerous!
Good morning 5:30am.
Not so Big Wednesday. But coming up later today.
Right now is 3′ perfect and fun.
Winds trades at 20mph. Perfect offshore.
Another sunny and hot day.
Going to the ocean.
Have a wonderful day!
Jeannie Chesser and Doc Paskowitz
super stoked to take this photo today for Jeannie Chesser. standing next to surf legend Doc Paskowitz who happens to be 93 YEARS OLD!!! this legend surfer was hanging down at bowls today and i couldn’t believe how good he looked! 93 years young! an american surfer who graduated from Stanford University to become a doctor than gave up his professional career to become a surfer. what a cool story and what a cool guy driving his car down to the beach today!
i had to wash the truck this morning. i was in free surfing bowls and thought to myself “go home now and wash the truck for an hour, or pay $16 and drive it through the 20 minute car wash? stay out and surf for 40 minutes longer?” after having such a great time, i decide to pay the $16 and enjoy 40 minutes more of surfing. it turned out to be the right choice because paying $16 for 5 sets at bowls is well worth it. and i’d do it again.
then of course it had to rain twice today. haha. i don’t even care already. mother nature makes up her own mind and i just go with the flow.
surfed 3 rounds today and had so much fun. the waves got bigger this afternoon as a freak 5′ set came in and caught us off guard. i was watching the waves at dark and it’s definitely getting bigger. tomorrow is big wednesday and i’m looking forward to spending another full day in the ocean. sweet dreams!
