Pepper Eggs

well, our normal summer weather is back to stay. super sunny sky, super fresh air, super cool trade winds, and super good offshore winds. nothing is unpredictable anymore, everyday will be a perfect tropical hawaiian day. enjoy!
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had super fun these past 2 days surfing with Eriko-san. such an energetic and fun surfer girl! good waves, good conversations, and good laughs. thank you Eriko-san!
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been surfing all day everyday recently so when i get home in the evenings, i am soooo hungry!!! so hungry that i bit my chopstick while eating. haha.
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super stoked to see Koa Matsumoto win the boys division at the local motion surf into summer contest. i’m sure his father and former JPSA pro surfer Glenn Matsumoto must be really proud. such a great family!
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i grab Pepper when she was a chick from the wild, bring her home, release her into the wild a few months later, go back to the exact same spot and pick her up, bring her home, now she’s laying eggs everyday, now she’s wanting to come into my house. the coolest chicken ever! over hundred eggs laid and never have to buy eggs from the supermarket again.
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super stoked to see Toda-san, Takami-san, Kyle, and Cathy having fun over there in hokkaido. gosh, i wish i could have joined them. i’m starting to miss japan again. the food, the people, the culture, the waves, and most of all, my family and friends. hope to see you all very soon.

May 29, 2014 Hawaii Surf Report

Please open my door!
Good morning 6am.
Bowls waist to chest high and little morning sickness.
Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.
Windy trade winds at 20mph and a very low tide this morning.
Super sunny warm trade wind day. Put on sunscreen!
Surfing all day again!
Have a wonderful day!

Evening session


Surfed all day!
Tomorrow same!
Goodnight.