i pulled up to diamond head at 6pm for the past 4 days and i couldn’t believe how good the waves were. just the most perfect direction and perfect winds. seen some 2 minute rides and everybody seemed happy. i surfed elsewhere but had a great time watching the action of all the surfers getting in a session before dark. check out some photos from yesterday. if you know any of these surfers, please give them their photo. i got more photos to post but not enough time. chotto matte kudasai ne. mahalo!
Diamond Head Gallery UP!
South Shore Wipeout!
10am @ Bowls: Wipeout and enjoy life!
Save a Life?
i get up yesterday morning and look outside my window. seen the biggest moon!!! yes, in the morning! so i get out my camera, take a photo, and decide to take photos all day long.
passing by magic island looking from the channel. i pass these trees 10x a week and still think it’s so cool!
then looking at bowls from Mayuki. 3 guys on a wave? sometimes i’m in the mood so i go out there, but most of the times i’m not so i pass it by and go check my secret spot.
i pull up and see perfect unridden barrels. people ask me why nobody surfs here? first, you need a boat. second, you can’t be afraid of 15′ tiger sharks. that’s why i end up surfing there all by myself.
then i look out and see a sailboat in distress. there was no wind so it was just stopped in the ocean getting pushed into the waves. i hear the captain yelling “F!@K!!!” i knew exactly where he was so i just watched from far away through my lens. after i see him get out his paddle and try to paddle that big boat with a small paddle, i knew he was desperate.
i see a sailboat just go right on by.
then i see a another boat pull by to help. there’s no way that little boat could pull that big boat. i watch for 20 minutes more and see the boat getting pushed into the big waves and reef. that’s when i knew it was time to rescue the guy.
i pull by, back up, connect the tow rope, and tow him out to safety. after it’s all done, that captain says “thanks dude, you saved my life.” that’s cool because one day that captain might save mine too.
