Wednesday September17日 2025年

Surf and Poison Tacos

just another full surfing day here in hawaii. waves perfect again! just enjoying the experience and loving every moment.
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today was surf session #5 for Nanami-san and the boys. everyone’s just keep on getting better and better. i think this family is addicted to surfing. haha. everybody catching their own waves and riding it till the end.
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Liam with perfect form.
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poor Gavin stepped on sea urchin a few days ago, then got food poisoning yesterday. so it must have felt good to get back in the water in good health. i really don’t want to say the restaurant where he got food poisoning at because i don’t want to ruin their reputation, but i ate there once last year and felt sick too. the fish taco smelt stinky and my iron stomach wasn’t feeling good after. that’s why i wasn’t surprised when Gavin got sick after eating there. i’m sure the both of us will never ever go back there again. and i hope you don’t too.
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then surfed with Moto-san and Etsu-san this afternoon. so stoked to see the progress in everybody’s surfing. just getting better and better.
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Etsu-san doesn’t want to go back to japan tomorrow, i don’t blame her. after an awesome surf session, you just want more and more. the cool thing is that hawaii will always be hawaii. just one flight away and the waves will be here every single day of the year. welcome anytime!
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found this photo of my nephews. it was the very first time i took them bottom fishing on my boat. i remember catching so many fish that day. Micah with the big nebeta, Joshua with the wekeula, and Isaiah with a wekeula and uku. till this day, these kids still talk about that first experience. i remember taking this photo and they were so happy!
well, surfed over 5 hours again. i just checked my calendar and had only had 2 days off since May 27th! no wonder why i’m so black!!! haha. surfing all day again tomorrow. good night!

Japanese Dream Surf Session

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i had such a great time surfing with Oniyanagi-san. a very kind man with a kind heart.
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and a very good surfer!
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this was that dream session on sunday. just Oniyanagi-san and i surfing perfect bowls rights during the contest. then a japanese surfer girl came out and it was just the 3 of us catching wave after wave. nobody around to bother us.
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Kyoko-san surfed really good. good style and good timing on catching the waves.
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yes, we were very happy surfing a sunday with only the 3 of us out!
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Oniyanagi-san walking to the nose. i don’t know when or if we will ever get a perfect right to ourselves again. it’s just one of those magical moments in life. enjoy it!
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thank you Oniyanagi-san for the Buden Shouten tshirt! keep on surfing and hope to surf with you again!

June 25, 2014 Hawaii Surf Report


Fashion or culture?
Good morning 5:45am.
Small waves again. Where is the new South swell? Maybe tomorrow? Bowls waist high and hopefully coming up later today.
Diamond Head shoulder high and clean.
Trade winds at 15mph.
Clear sunny day again. Blue sky in the afternoon.
I’m going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!