Monday November10日 2025年

Surf, Dimsum, Surf!

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had a great time with Kanako-chan this morning. such a cool girl from Kobe who i surfed with 3x in these past few years. super energetic, super genki, and super funny.
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today she surfed the best yet! just perfect riding wave after wave!
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usually Kanako-chan’s younger sister Sachiko surfs with us but she’s in san diego learning english for a year. but i was glad to talk to her today via skype.
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and dimsum for lunch. gosh, it’s been a while since i ate in china town and i forgot how good it was.
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this is my favorite: Shoronpo.
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and another favorite sweet sour cabbage rice noodles. after this we ate sesame balls and i forgot to take a photo of my favorite chinese desert.
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yes, another beautiful sunny day! just perfect weather!
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then i went to take Nanami-san and her son surfing this afternoon. the waves were so good and not too many people out compared to the morning.
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Liam is getting better and better. it’s only our 4th session and he’s catching waves by himself already.
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Nanami-san surfing with Ai-san in the background. 2 cool surfer girls with only one thing on their minds, “surfing!”
tomorrow same thing, surfing 2 rounds! good night from hawaii!

OMG, Crowded!!!!


Rockpiles super crowded today!!!
Where’s the waves???
Everybody waiting!

Short board vs. Long board

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i had a fun time with these three young guys. just watching them enjoy surfing in hawaii for the first time was funny.
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Ryo-kun trying out short boarding for the first time. i watched and watched as he had a hard time paddling a tiny board in small surf so i finally offered him my longboard. he became much happier after that as he caught so many more waves.
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i kept on telling the boys to look forward but every time i rode along the side of them, they looked at me and fell. it was funny. but after a few wipeouts, they looked forward and rode perfectly!
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perfect surfing Hayato-kun! keep on looking forward. haha.
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i wish i took more trips with my friends when i was younger. it’s just a time in your life when there are no stress, lots of energy, and no worries at all. i’m sure the memories from this trip for these boys will last a lifetime.
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i’ve been watching these 3 omilu’s swimming out at rockpiles and bowls for the past 4 years. i wanted to go back and spear them but actually thought they were so cool, just like pets.
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this day the water was beautiful and i could have grabbed one with my hand. the next day, i saw my friend spear fishing out there and he told me he shot one. OMG! shock! now there are 2 lonely omilu’s that will probably never come back. that sucks.
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back to surfing. Ban-chan surfed so much that he couldn’t lift his arms at the end of the day. great form!
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and when Ryo-kun rode the longboard, he caught 10x more waves than the short board. some days are for long boarding, some days are for short boarding. this day was long for sure!
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thank you Hayato-kun! hope you are enjoying your long hawaiian vacation. see you in the water!