i never download music, but when i seen this album, i had to get it. Neil Diamond Love Songs! omg! i can’t wait to take another trip and listen to it on my ipod. and speaking of trips, i saw some airplanes take off when i was surfing yesterday and thought to myself “gosh, i want to travel again.” then after i caught a wave, i rethought “i take that back. i want to enjoy my life in hawaii for a little while more. i ain’t going anywhere.”

i pulled up to bowls and seen something weird??? 4 pigeon statues? did somebody put these there? then as i got closer, they moved their heads. they stayed in the same place for the whole time i was there, but the heads were moving.

then i went closer and found out they were real!!! omg, such good synchronicity. how cool is this?

and if you haven’t heard the news around the world yet, a pro surfer is charged with attempted murder. yes, this 30 year girl tried to kill a 73 year old lady with her car. all because of road rage. it’s crazy how this news is making headlines around the world. it kind of gives pro surfers from hawaii a bad image. kind of bummed at this. there are rapes, murders, drugs, killings, stabbings, and all kinds of crime in hawaii that never makes the headlines around the world. but this did and you know why? because she’s a surfer. but in america, everybody is innocent until proven guilty in the court of law. at $1 million bail set, this might be serious.
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KnJli5khhpI[/youtube]

OMG, ebay got hacked!!!!
Reset your password ASAP!
Good morning 5am.
South shore still fun.
Bowls chest high sets and super clean.
Diamond Head little overhead and super clean.
No wind so perfect conditions in the morning.
Weird wind coming around 10am again.
Sunny hot morning, humid muggy cloudy rainy afternoon.
Winter weather continues.
I’m going dawn patrol.
Have a wonderful day!

i was driving to the beach early this morning and seen something i see all the time. a super drunk man sleeping on the side of the street near the ala wai canal. it kind of reminded me of my college days. haha. i’m just glad i finally grew up.

wow, i had an amazing day with this super woman! Nishio-san came to hawaii for the honolulu triathlon. she completed it 2 days ago. today we surfed all day long, 5.5 hours to be exact. it’s her first time surfing and she stood up from the very first wave to the last. total of 50 plus waves ridden today, paddled out by herself, turned, and even caught waves by herself. i couldn’t believe how much energy she had!!! then come to find out, Nishio-san couldn’t even swim 2 years ago. so she learned in a pool, and swam the triathlon part in the ocean. it was her first time ever swimming in the ocean!! omg!!! but she put her fears aside and completed the race. i was amazed!!! then i found out that she has 2 kids age 20 and 15. omg! super energetic mom!!! i ask her what’s next? she said “skydiving!” today was a very inspiring day for me! i’m going to stop taking my afternoon naps. haha.

between surfs, we went to visit nature. and nature as always was very peaceful and beautiful. the smell, the breeze, and the birds singing. totally different than the ocean.

i just had to get a panorama shot of this amazing power spot.

then like every afternoon for the past 3 days, it rained. no wind today, cloudy sky, hazy vog, and the water got colder all of a sudden. it feels like winter and it’s going to be like this for the next week or so.
super burnt from today. i’m so surprised how long we surfed today. i had a great time and after watching the progress and smiles, i know i have the best job in the world. good night and see you in the water tomorrow morning at 5:30am because i’m surfing all day! the south swell continues for the next week! yeah!!!