Finger Pet
Good morning 5:30am.
North shore 1-3′ and perfect!
South shore shoulder high and perfect!
Super clean conditions everywhere with light winds.
Cloudy becoming sunny.
Great to be back in Hawaii.
I’m surfing all day!
See you in the beautiful ocean.

12 days of traveling and only 4 days of diving. this had to have been one of the longest trip of my entire lifetime. 8 airplanes with total time of 45 hours inflight, not too mention the hours and hours of check ins and transits. i got stuck in LA last night, grabbed a hotel, slept, then straight back to the airport this morning. luckily got a seat on a flight back to hawaii. as soon as i got off the airplane, i told myself “i’m not traveling for a very long time!”

the cool thing is that i am getting much more patient. i seen some people almost having heart attacks because they couldn’t get on the flight. there is absolutely nothing you can do when you’re traveling like this, nothing. just sit patiently, and pray!

and look out the window watching airplanes leaving without you. haha.

i spent hundreds of dollars eating unhealthy food at airports. this was my breakfast at LA and it was terrible.

the drive up my street is a very joyful time for me. the blue sky, white clouds, green mountains, and fresh air revives my body and soul.

i ate a basic japanese lunch which i dearly missed. i could eat this for breakfast, lunch, and dinner forever.

then straight to the beach! paddled out and felt so free! and luckily the waves were perfect and uncrowded!

then driving home and watching all the construction going on. it’s the first time i appreciated traffic. haha.
i’m totally jet lagged now. hopefully i can get some good sleep before my normal lifestyle starts tomorrow. want to thank the hawaiian crew for the wonderful time in panama. and thank each and every person i met along the way. goodnight from beautiful hawaii.

I want to live and die in Hawaii!
Welcome back to my beautiful home!