omg, what another long day. it’s 10:30pm now and i finally got to sit down and drink some water. i left early this morning and started by checking the waves, getting surfboards ready, washed the truck, visited my grandpa, surfed 2 points, bodysurfed the shorebreak, filmed for japanese tv, took film for tv, drove around, surfed again, shot video, open house, shoot photos, dinner, drinks, and about a hundred of phone calls, 50 emails, 300 texts, and my mind just going blank after a while. have you ever had your head overheat? well, i just did. now i’ll be up probably to midnight on my computer downloading and uploading footage from today. no, i’m not complaining, i’m just tripping out on myself. i don’t drink red bull and i don’t take hyper drugs. i’m just on a natural high. want to try to keep up with me? i’ll bet you can’t because i have a hard time keeping up with myself. and if i forgot to do things today, please forgive me.

every single morning i must see the ocean. why? because the ocean controls the rest of my day.

can you believe my grandpa is 95 years old!!! omg, his doctor told him that he’s a lot more healthy than most of his 50 year old patients. thanks for the big smile grandpa and for brightening up my day. people ask me why i work hard? my answer is because my grandparents did.

then Kyle texted me a photo this morning. wow! who is that? i don’t even remember this.

right when i woke up, i knew sandy beach was going to be good. perfect waves at half point, full point, and shorebreak. i surfed them all!

then a huge whale swam right on by as i was in the water. i dove under and could hear the whales voices. cool!

watched the sunset in town.

and watched my friends paddle out and surf. the funny thing is i could see them, but they couldn’t see me. here is waterman Keoni Watson.

such a cute photo. i hope this gets into Keoni’s hands somehow because photos like this are priceless.

and been getting emails all day of the snow in japan. all public transportation stopped! cool!

watched Kekoa Cazimero do some big power snaps. gosh, the waves were going off this evening!

then Randall Paulson with the big off the lip. Yuki-san took this photo as she’s getting very use to using the best camera and lens in the world. this is magazine quality!
tomorrow i have even a longer day planned. better get some sleep. goodnight.

5:40pm @ Secrets.
Kekoa Cazimero flying high!
Waves are clean and perfect.
Go-Naminori!

i still have many photos i took from cambodia. again, a great experience i will never forget.

a 20 minute walk from the NHCC is a cool temple. don’t know why anybody was there but it was just standing so tall and beautiful.

the artwork was amazing! very colorful and very detailed illustrations of the buddhist culture.

it must have taken a very long time to build this amazing temple. a great place to meditate for sure.

and the walk over is very interesting too. this is normal life in the country side of Cambodia.

lotus? lilly?

Lena is one of the teachers. a young 23 year old from austria dedicating part of her life to the kids. had great conversations with her but the one thing that surprised me was she didn’t watch the movie “The Sound of Music!!!” OMG!

i think about Kalyan a lot. just one of the many kids that i fell in love with. it’s good that Davis is keeping us connected through texts, emails, and skype. i would seriously adopt this beautiful girl if i had the chance, but it’s a little more complicated than you think. i’ll explain later. the last time we skyped the other night, Kalyan was so happy as we were talking. all of a sudden, she stopped talking, her facial expression went from happy to sad, and she started crying. OMG, it was so heartbreaking. just to see this girls smile can make my day a lot better. but to see her crying can rip my heart out. ahhhh…

Kaylan colored this and gave it to Davis to give to me. it’s something i must go and pick up so that’s my excuse to go back to see her. that simple.