with a huge storm approaching the island, timing is key in getting good waves. woke up early, checked it and looked terrible. then around 8am, things started to change. the winds turned and cleaned up town. i call Miwa-san, head down to the harbor, pick her up for a long morning session.

it’s always good to see Miwa-san. a girl with big dreams, one of them is to live in paradise! i think it will happen someday but until then, being happy and enjoying life is what she’s doing. i pick her up in my floating car.

then we enter the ocean from the opposite side. a close paddle, good waves, we surf for 3 hours, catch long rides, a lot of smiles, and then the storm approaches. it went from perfect sunny weather to one of the darkest days of the year.

the girls were swimming in the pool as the storm approached. 1 minute after they got out, the rain and thunder came down hard!

so we warm up by eating pho at the new Pho Saigon. probably one of the best pho in hawaii. very clean, very tasty, and very hot. just order the beef balls or rare meat because the chicken is a little dry. $9 and very happy.

my job should be the weatherman. nobody watches the wind, sky, clouds, radar, and waves more than me.

then Katsura-san and i paddle out for a quick afternoon session. a new experience, great rides, and a big smile. another great day in paradise!
huge swell on friday. stay tuned!

With Miwa-san! Welcome to Hawaii!

it’s so fun meeting all kinds of people. watching their first impressions of hawaii, watching their first wave, and being a part of their dream hawaiian vacation is awesome. met a bunch of people getting married in hawaii, having a honeymoon, or even anniversary. but it was my first time ever taking a groom surfing a few hours before the biggest day of his life.

Endo-san had his own wedding scheduled for 11am. i picked him up before sunrise, headed to the beach, and paddled out for his last bachelor surf session.

it was a beautiful day. as we were paddling out, i was telling myself “omg, this guy better not get hurt! if he does, i’m in big trouble!”

it would be any surfers dream to start out their hawaiian wedding day with a wave in the golden sunrise.

i kept on looking at my watch to make sure i get Endo-san to his wedding on time. i think i was more nervous than him. haha.

we came in, he took a shower, and i drove him to his wedding. i remember telling the wedding coordinator to please take care of his surfboard. i’m sure Endo-san had the best wedding day ever! and i’m sure he will be happy forever because he found the perfect wife. a wife that will let you surf a few hours before your wedding is a great wife. i wish you two the best future ahead!