another day of surfing! had so much fun again. it felt like summer again today. the weather was perfect! super warm, the water felt good, no need wetsuit, lots of waves, and very little people. it was probably the most peaceful day of the year in the water. no angry locals, no surf schools, and no noise. i could even hear the birds chirping while surfing. cool!

Hashimoto-san told me after we got out of the water, “i caught a years worth of waves this morning.” i get really happy to hear that! i love watching people catch so many waves and paddle back out with the biggest smile on their face. i was the only local out today so i told Hashimoto-san, “every wave is yours so GO!” and he went! thank you Hashimoto-san for a wonderful morning session! see you tomorrow! let’s go catch another years worth of waves!

i was driving towards diamond head today and noticed something different. it was all green!!! with all the rain we’ve been having, mother natures been watering the normally asahi super dry diamond head.

i’ve never seen it this green from the bottom to the top before. so beautiful!

then i picked up Tae-san for boot camp day 3. the past 2 days, Tae-san would have a habit of looking down, therefore falling. no matter how much i tell her to look up, she would look down. so today i tried something different. i was an asshole. i told her “you know what? i don’t care if you look down anymore. you will keep falling, and you will get hurt. mou shiranai!” next wave, Tae-san took off, looked up, and rode it perfectly. and every wave after that she looked up. sometimes being an asshole works. haha. being nice or mean, my main goal is to get people surfing safer and better. then after we paddled in, i felt bad.

sorry Tae-san for being mean today. i’ll do anything to get you surfing to the level you dream of. and thank you for the snacks! be ready tomorrow afternoon for boot camp day 4! ATTENTION!!!

Diamond Head shoulder high, glassy, and perfect!

i wake up, get an email from my brother. Davis is teaching english to 1st graders at an orphanage for kids with AIDS. yeah, orphanage means no parents. and AIDS means incurable. David dedicated his life to this orphanage and has probably seen some heavy real life situations going down. but it’s the miracles that shine.
Mi Chhouy is one of his 1st grade students. he got really sick and the local hospital sent him home giving him only 3 more days to live. they didn’t give up as the orphanage founders Kathy and John drove him overland all night to a hospital in bangkok. the kid had to get resuscitated 3 times as he had blood in his lungs. he was fighting for his life and somehow, pulled through it! my brother put together this video of the homecoming for little Mi Chhouy. for some reason, you have to play it on a computer because the sound doesn’t come out on mobile phones. i just watched it and it is very touching. very touching for me to see an innocent kid fighting for his life, and very touching for me to see my brother making a difference in this world. i want to thank everyone that donated money to my brothers mission. if you did, you already saved a little boys life, and you will save more. and to my brother Davis, i’m so fricken proud of you!!! tell little Mi Chhouy i said “hello from hawaii and i will visit him someday!”
[youtube]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WXhVA4ZBFKU[/youtube]