what another great day of surfing! Kosuke-san and Atsusa-san tried to surf before but couldn’t stand up. so i guess you couldn’t call that surfing. so today was revenge! they both stood up, rode long waves, and had a great time. i was so happy to be part of their first real surfing experience. shaka!

super stoked to see Hikaru-san traveling and enjoying her life. she just came back from Bali and was hanging out with my longtime friend, Koming. cool world!

people ask me why i travel. i travel because i want to experience different cultures and learn different techniques. and after absorbing all the experiences, i take a little of every culture and implement it into my life. i guess that’s why i’m living such a simple life because everything in third world countries are just plain simple. all i need is my surfboard and boat, then everything will be ok.

this is indonesia style construction on a remote island in timor. everything made by hand. hard working and no complaining. after seeing people work so hard for so little money, i never complain about my job and i give it my 100% all the time.

omg, check out my birthday present from Inaida-san and Yuki-san! i love it!!!! a traditional japanese rice keeper that will keep my rice fresh. super stoked!

OMG! My dream club!!!

omg, yesterday has to had been one of the longest days in my life here in hawaii. i left my house at 7 in the morning and came back at 9:30 at night. 10 different boards in and out of the truck, 3 different groups at 3 different times, and about a total of hundred waves ridden. yeah, i had a long day but as i was driving home last night, i told myself again and again “gosh, you are a lucky man!” i met new amazing people and shared wave after wave all day long!

Hana-chan’s been surfing for 8 years but surfs like she’s been surfing for 20 years. she rode a fun board and caught so many good waves at bowls and rock piles. she was practicing to do a cutback and she did the perfect round house cutback on a perfect wave. i was super stoked to see her ripping and enjoying her first surf here in hawaii. hey Hana-chan, i had a wonderful morning with you. surfing, eating, and sightseeing. keep on surfing and hope to see you again!

then i had a late evening session with the Yamada-san family. also their first surf here in hawaii. we paddled out late afternoon and surfed super empty waves. super stoked to see such a wonderful family enjoying hawaii. to the Yamada-san family, hope you enjoyed your surf session. wish you great surf sessions in wakayama and remember to surf, look straight ahead, bend your knees, and smile!

and a hungry surfer needs protein. and the best place to power up after a great surf session is Imanas! nowhere can beat this chanko nabe!

with a side order of prime beef. OMG, so happy!

we surf everyday and we always have fun! 2 wonderful people that changed my life for the better. welcome back to hawaii Inaida-san and Yuki-san. you surfed so good these past 2 days! Thank you for everything you have done for me in my life. i still think i’m dreaming so please don’t wake me up. haha. keep on surfing and keep on living the surfers dream life! oh, and thank you for the oishi dinner!