omg, yesterday has to had been one of the longest days in my life here in hawaii. i left my house at 7 in the morning and came back at 9:30 at night. 10 different boards in and out of the truck, 3 different groups at 3 different times, and about a total of hundred waves ridden. yeah, i had a long day but as i was driving home last night, i told myself again and again “gosh, you are a lucky man!” i met new amazing people and shared wave after wave all day long!

Hana-chan’s been surfing for 8 years but surfs like she’s been surfing for 20 years. she rode a fun board and caught so many good waves at bowls and rock piles. she was practicing to do a cutback and she did the perfect round house cutback on a perfect wave. i was super stoked to see her ripping and enjoying her first surf here in hawaii. hey Hana-chan, i had a wonderful morning with you. surfing, eating, and sightseeing. keep on surfing and hope to see you again!

then i had a late evening session with the Yamada-san family. also their first surf here in hawaii. we paddled out late afternoon and surfed super empty waves. super stoked to see such a wonderful family enjoying hawaii. to the Yamada-san family, hope you enjoyed your surf session. wish you great surf sessions in wakayama and remember to surf, look straight ahead, bend your knees, and smile!

and a hungry surfer needs protein. and the best place to power up after a great surf session is Imanas! nowhere can beat this chanko nabe!

with a side order of prime beef. OMG, so happy!

we surf everyday and we always have fun! 2 wonderful people that changed my life for the better. welcome back to hawaii Inaida-san and Yuki-san. you surfed so good these past 2 days! Thank you for everything you have done for me in my life. i still think i’m dreaming so please don’t wake me up. haha. keep on surfing and keep on living the surfers dream life! oh, and thank you for the oishi dinner!

Cool Bike!
Good morning 7am.
North shore 1-2′ from the North. Small and fun Laniakea. Clean conditions. South tiny.
Waist high sets at Bowls and a little bigger at Rock Piles.
Diamond Head biggest at shoulder high.
Winds from the East at 20mph.
A few clouds but sunny sky later.
Going surfing all day again.
Have a wonderful day!

Great surfing today Hanachan!
Keep on surfing and keep on smiling!