good evening. OOOOH MYYYY GOSSSSHHHH!!!! how perfect were the waves today? OMG! i surfed for 4.5 hours and had so much fun.

i checked diamond head early this morning and i knew that every single surf spot on this island was going to be perfect. perfect wind, perfect swell, and perfect weather. diamond head was so beautiful, and so was bowls where i surfed all day.

absolutely no clouds in the sky. only true blue!

i surfed with Kobayashi-san again this morning. i was so happy to see him surfing better and better. 2 levels up in 2 surf sessions. i’m just has happy as he is!
13
Bac Nam pho for lunch. the best in hawaii!
then surfed again bowls this afternoon with Team Inaida-san. it’s been a while but once everybody caught their first wave, it was back to normal. good waves, good time, good smile, and good friends!
what a wonderful world we live in!!!

Perfect weather.
Perfect waves.
Perfect Hawaii.

weird weather once again. but the good thing is that the tradewinds are coming back on friday. along with a solid 6′ north/west swell on saturday, and a south swell next week. summer is here and i’m looking forward to surfing right down my street!

this fish is called a “Moana Kali.” you don’t see too many of these, especially big like this. they sometimes hang out with travelly’s and act just like them. they are curious and if you stay on the bottom and wait long enough, they just might come close. and when they do, BANG! this fish weighted 2.5lbs. and cost $32 in a fish market in chinatown. if you went to a chinese restaurant to eat it, it will cost about $70. so for us divers, when you spear one of these prized fish, you are a very happy man.

the ISA Games in Panama is going on this week. surf stars representing each country are there trying to win the gold medal. representing japan is Shun Murakami, Kaito Ohashi, and Nao Omura.

i still can’t believe how far Shun has come in his surfing. when i first met him when he was 10 years old, he was a little kid trying to do a turn. now, he’s one of the top young gun surfers in the world. what a good representation for japan surfing! Go-Shun!

this kid will be on top for sure!