hey, did you surf today? OMG! the waves were unreal! north/south/west shores all perfect. perfect for every level from beginner to expert. today has to be one of the best surfing days in the past 5 years. pipe going off, bowls going off, diamond head going off, and west side going off. i’m surfed out, sunburnt, and am totally satisfied. hey, i’m a busy guy, but a happy busy guy. as i was driving home this afternoon from the beach, i was thinking to myself “i wonder if there is anybody else in the world that has such a dream life like mine?” i couldn’t be a better place in my life right now. yahoo!

i surfed this morning with Shimazaki-san. she’s been to hawaii 20 times and knows a lot of things and places i don’t even know about. it was her first time surfing and after all the fun, i’m sure it’s not her last. thank you for the wonderful morning!

then i paddled back out to surf this afternoon. the waves were just perfect. overhead, offshore, sunny, uncrowded, and paradise. this guy walking on the wall isn’t too happy with his surfboard in 2 pieces.

want to thank Toda-san for sending me this photo of my favorite mountain in the whole world, Mt. Fuji!

after a week, my finger is still so sore and throbbing. when i push people into waves, sometimes the leash wraps around my finger and yanks it. do you know how sore that is? OMG! i scream like a baby inside. i hope it heals soon.
anyway, super burnt out. the waves are going to be good for the next 5 days! perfect waves, perfect wind, perfect weather, and perfect everything. i still can’t believe i’m going to japan in a few days! i better get ready! see you all soon!

South swell going off!

i came home yesterday and turned on the cams to check the waves. OMG! i couldn’t believe how much the waves came up from the morning. pipeline was barely breaking in the morning and it was 10-12′ in the afternoon. the waves were perfect and not too many surfers out. i’m sure this swell caught everybody off guard. i actually had to look twice at my calendar to see what month is was. OMG, it’s april? lucky we live in hawaii. keep on surfing!

check out this cool photo i took the other day. it’s kekoa vs. hungry shark. it just blows me away when i’m diving in the deep blue. everyday is a different day and right after this shark came by, the huge whale swam right under us. probably the coolest thing i’ve seen in a while.

and wanted to say hello to Takeda-san in japan. i like the new 5-73 “Go-Nami” sticker! cool!