7:38am. Diamond Head chest high and clean.

6:25am @ Laniakea. This is the best spot today.
North swell @ 2-3′. Really clean conditions.
Laniakea or Rocky Rights best.
South shore tiny. Knee at Ala Moana, chest at Diamond Head. Very clean conditions.
Light wind in the morning.
Sunny sky. Paradise!
I’m going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!

there’s a saying “there’s no place like home.” now i know exactly the true meaning of that because yes, there’s no place like home. i’m so excited to surf, dive, work, and enjoy my comfortable hawaiian lifestyle. slow pace and endless things to do. eat healthy, live healthy, and keep on smiling. it felt so good to be back in the water today. good waves and only a few surfers. welcome back to the island of aloha!!!!

right when i got off the airplane, i rushed home and ate some hot rice and miso soup. that’s all i wanted to eat and it felt like the best meal i’ve had in a long time. next time i travel to south america, i’m taking rice and miso soup for sure! i don’t want to see bread and potatoes for a long time. haha.

i finally had time to go through all my emails. good to hear from matsu traveling to india. that’s my next destination for sure. hey matsu, see you on M7 very soon.

and thank you toda-san and takami-san for always sending me photos of my favorite mountain in the world, mt. fuji!

surf industry news: nike is pulling out of surfing. yeah, so their top riders like julian wilson and carissa moore will have to transfer to nike’s owned hurley team. that’s pretty big disappointing news for a huge corporation like nike to pull out of the surfing industry. i hope others don’t follow.

and got an email from tahiti’s keoni yan. hey keoni, cool video! stoked you’re coming to hawaii to charge the north shore. give me a call when you get here. maruru!
**CLICK HERE FOR KEONI YAN VIDEO!