Saiko!

gosh, went to my secret spot today and surfed alone. the waves were super fun on this east wind swell and the conditions were beautiful. so lucky to still have secret spots in hawaii. it’s been windy and cold for the past 2 weeks and it’s feeling like christmas! i love it! 5 more days till Santa!

ok, to me, 12/21/12 is winter solstice. this day marks the beginning of the winter in the northern hemisphere and summer in the southern hemisphere. but to some people, or should i say millions of people, 12/21/12 will be the end of the world. do you believe? i sure don’t.

and if you live life to the fullest everyday like how i do, you shouldn’t be afraid if the world ends. things just happen in life that is out of your control so my suggestion is to be happy, treat people kindly, and live every breath like it’s your last. and if you can do all of that, everything will be ok.

i saw this in a magazine. the first apple computer ever created. how cool is this? and to think this company now is the biggest company in the world blows me away.

got a new interesting book. its’ called Bushido “The Soul of Japan.” something i’m really interested in. i read the first chapter and it’s taught me a lot already. hope to be able to finish it soon. thank you Inaida-san.

my last trip was the first time i spent a december in japan. i thought japanese don’t celebrate christmas but i was wrong. there were christmas trees and christmas lights everywhere. it was a happy feeling and i hope to spend christmas there sometime in the near future. merry christmas to everyone!

i want to congratulate my nephew Seth Moniz for getting a cover shot on the current Free Surf Magazine! when ever i see a photo of Seth in the barrel, it makes me flashback to the time we went to bali 4 years ago. i was swimming in the water for the first 2 days trying to get a good barrel shot of him. then after getting sunburnt and jealous of not being able to surf, i’d go back to our room and upload the photos on my computer. every single shot of him i got, seth had a weird funny face. too serious, eyes open big, and mouth open bigger. the barrel shot was cover shot material but the face made it unusable. so we worked on it and by the end of the trip, seth was pulling into huge barrels smiling. while he was riding in the barrel, i’d be yelling “SMILE!!!” while shooting. the photos we got of the last day came out so amazing that i didn’t even show anybody them yet. haha. i’m not joking as i’m saving it for something special. to see a young 12 year old grom smiling in a huge death barrel is classic. and now, look at this beautiful barrel ride with a beautiful face. i’m proud of you seth!

flip 2 pages into the magazine and Josh Moniz has an ad for HIC. the moniz boys are booming!

seth moniz again?

josh moniz again?

josh moniz again? gosh, i’m super happy and proud of these boys for representing hawaii in a good respectful way. josh and seth are 2 amazing kids who everybody loves. the are climbing their way to the top of the international surfing world. and good job Freesurf mag for letting the boys shine!