Thursday September18日 2025年

Surf/eat/surf/eat

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Surf round one: 3 hours with Toyama’s Ushijima-san.
Eat Pho
Surf again!
Good waves.
Good fun.

Kua'Aina Hamburger/Mexico/Hokkaido/Soul Surfer

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it’s been a while since i ate a Kua’Aina avocado burger. i didn’t realize how dam big it is! i’d say one of the biggest hamburgers in the world.
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do you actually think you can bite this whole burger? no way!
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Matsuoka-san is from Hokkaido and surfed for her first time at Puerto Escondido, Mexico. that’s where i almost drowned 10 years ago. second time in chigasaki. today was her third time and she did really good. super strong, super happy, and super smiling! i had a great day with her!
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speaking about great days, this day was one of the happiest days in my life. i was on a secluded sand island in the middle of the maldives. white sand beach, emerald blue water, and just paradise. what more could you ask for?
and last, i’ve had a lot of comments about this documentary of kelia moniz. i can’t tell you how proud i am of this girl. just so pure with a great heart. i don’t know anybody else in the world that could represent Roxy as good as she’s doing now. my little niece is growing up too fast. if i were a little surfer girl growing up anywhere in this world, i would want to be like Kelia Moniz. watch this again and you’ll know why.
[vimeo]http://vimeo.com/43370645[/vimeo]

Early Morning Summer Surfers

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OMG! A crowded Saturday!