25′ wave Stand up Surfing? Crazy! Awesome!
Good morning 6:30 am.
Pipeline: 1-3′ and very clean. Perfect conditions.
Laniakea: 1′ and small. Clean and only 1 surfer out.
Ala Moana: Waist high and glassy. 3 guys out at Bowls.
Diamond Head: Best spot in town today.
Wind: None becoming light tradewinds.
Weather: Overcast becoming rain or sun? Weird weather.
Plan: Airport/Surf/Yoga.
Have a wonderful day!

a friend sent me this photo of a secret spot somewhere in this world. after i saw this photo, i told myself “i’m surfing here!” i know where it is, i know how to get there, and the next chance i get, you will see me on one of those many many waves. i’m getting excited researching it because it’s somewhere i always wanted to go! stay tuned.

i’ve been a very busy person. 1 month ago, i told myself that i needed some precious time by myself. when i went to the maldives, i had 2 private yoga lessons with mohammad, who’s from india. as i sat in this room overlooking the indian ocean, i was all alone in my meditation and didn’t want to be anywhere else in the world. i was at total peace! i’ve been back to hawaii for a month now and i think i need another trip. namaste.
oh, as for the blog about the magazine that owes me and many other photographers money, i received a lot of emails asking me which magazine it is. as of now, i don’t plan to say anything. but as time goes by, i feel like it might be my obligation to tell the world. give me one more week and ask me again. haha.

Surfed out!