Thursday November20日 2025年

December 29, 2011 Hawaii Surf Report

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7 more days till Paradise Island! I’m so excited!
Good morning 5 am.
Jet lag? no, just woke up early.
South: I think small again. Rockpiles, Diamond Head best.
North: I think big! Maybe 6-10′ and good Sunset Beach, Pipeline, and
Haleiwa. Haleiwa International Open Contest ON from 8am. Junior mens
surfing today.
East: Windy wind swell. Sandy’s and Makapuu overhead.
West: I think 3-5′ and perfect offshore!
Windy day, with sunny sky. I’m going surfing!

Miyazaki, Maldives, and Joe Lewis


Yasui-san and i had a great time today. surfed for 3 hours, ate malaysian curry, drank a smoothie, and checked out harley davidson’s. the waves were so fun and i was impressed on how good yasui-san surfed. in fact, 2 other locals said to me, “wow, your friend rips!”
hey Yasui-san,
i had a great time today.
keep on surfing and hope to see you in miyazaki someday.
and please tell higashikawa-san i said hello. it’s been 6 years since our last maldives boat trip.
enjoy the rest of your vacation in hawaii.
aloha

my sister sent me this photo. it looks like the first japanese bodyboarder is here! does anybody know who this is? this is a pretty big wave at ehukai.

the fish i speared the other day is called a “Munu” or Joe Lewis. it weighed in at almost 3lbs. and is one of the most prized fish in hawaii. you hardly see them getting this big. score!
big swell tomorrow, bigger swell on new years day, bigger swell next week tuesday. it’s time to get serious! goodnight!

Forecast!

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Yeah! Summer is here!!! haha.
Sunny days ahead!
Buoy 1 is 11 feet 16 seconds.
Tomorrow morning 8-10′ Pipeline!
See you there!