good evening. wow, 3 awesome days this week at backdoor/pipeline. it’s already better than the whole last year winter season. i walked through the sand path to check the waves and as soon as i got to the beach, i seen a 8′ solid A-frame backdoor/pipe set that peeled like a oil painting. i stood there for 2 seconds in awe, turned around, and ran to my car to grab my board. i was so excited that i tripped and fell in the sand. good thing only 2 people saw. it was funny but i didn’t even have time to laugh. i just wanted to SURF!!!! i jumped in the water and ended up surfing for over 4 hours.
it was packed! lots of the locals were out including pros like joel parkinson, taj burrow, dean morrison, and many others. i was hard to get a wave but i didn’t give up. i waited and waited. if it came, good. if not, there’s always tomorrow. luckily for me, at 11:45, this perfect 6′ solid backdoor set came right to me. i turned around, took off, bottom turned, and got a huge barrel. it’s by far my best barrel of the year so far. i was so happy driving back to town… it was a great day and tomorrow, i’m taking the day off. stay home and watch a DVD.
check out this video i shot in like 30 minutes. i drowned 3 waterproof cameras already and if somebody wants to sponsor me more cameras, i’ll promote them in the best way possible. i can’t afford buying a new waterproof camera every week. i don’t make a penny off my videos and i never wanted to. i just shoot because i love shooting and showing the world the wonderful job i have. when this camera drowns, i’m done… haha…

HERE IT IS!!! ENJOY!!!

MY SECOND WAVE TODAY? OR THIRD? OR FOUTH?
EVERYDAY BARREL? GOOD NORTH SHORE SEASON!!!
THANK YOU GORDINHO!! SEE YOU THERE TOMORROW….