good morning! check these photos out.
i haven’t seen photographer yoshioka-san in a while. he had his group of bodyboarders getting some good waves…
i think this is yuka? am i right? or wrong?
the waves were breaking pretty fast yesterday so i told shun to stay right by the photographers because that’s where most surfers were getting caught behind. shun paddled out, sat right by the photographers, and got this wave. and yes, he got barreled! good boy shun…
this river has some of the nicest locals. i always get greeted with a smile and feel welcomed. that’s how surfing should be everywhere in the world!!
takayuki wakita is world known. one of the reasons why is because of his barrel riding skills. as soon as he took off, i knew he was going to get barreled. that’s a guarantee!
a lot of people in the surf industry witnessed typhoon 12 at it’s best. and news was spreading so fast that before i even got back home, i was getting text messages from people all around japan. thanks guys…
u-ske and nakajima-san were shooting from the water. and a few other photographers shooting from land. tomorrow, a month later, or even 50 years later, photos from this day will be published. i’m glad to be a part of that special day in japan! OH YEAH!!!
over 10,000 photos and many hours of video to document everybody’s awesome riding! stay tuned….
**here’s one of many unridden waves! wish you were here….
Typhoon 12 Documentary….
More Typhoon Malaka Photos…
i have a few more shots from yesterday i wanted to post. this is one of them.
we pray for rain, we pray for the perfect bank, we pray for the perfect typhoon, we pray for the perfect wind, and we pray for the perfect weather. once in 20 years all this comes together. yesterday was “THE DAY”….
this wave looks like 3 waves but it’s actually only one. some of the waves were thicker than tahiti and okinawa put together. and all breaking over little pebble rocks. i got smashed on the bottom 3x pretty hard and it actually felt good. if it was reef, i wouldn’t be posting a blog now, i’d be in the hospital….
after our crazy session, we drove to kamakura to check out the action. and boy, there was a lot of action. i haven’t seen so many happy surfers in a while….
after a few good waves, who gives a shit about traffic. it’s all good!!! good night….