Thursday September18日 2025年

ONE LIFE….


i had a blast at the barrels contest in shikoku last month. after i shot some photos, i ran away and locked myself in a room because i wanted to make a slideshow video for the bbq following. i waited for the perfect timing to show everybody. well, after 5 beers, the timing was perfect!

the beauty faces of barrels….

check out the good times we had on our last boat trip. tokura-san, eri-chan and i come from different lives but when your sharing a boat that’s sailing in the middle of the indian ocean, it’s all ONE LIFE…. so enjoy it!
**check out the barrels contest if you haven’t seen it yet….

THANK YOU KYOTO SURFER….

good morning. one day it’s summer, and the next day, it’s winter. going from tshirt to jacket? what’s going on??? i didn’t even want to get out of bed yesterday morning but i forced myself because i’m the type of person that doesn’t want to miss any action. i was freezing cold with only short pants but drove in the dark 30 minutes up the coast. i pulled up with my 3 board ready to go but the waves were FLAT? eeh? where are you typhoon 12? was i disappointed? no. there is always tomorrow, which is today. i’m going to jump in my car and do the same thing. i have only a few more days here in japan until i go to indonesia. i should be relaxing but that’s like telling a kid not to eat candy. impossible. well, better get going because my batteries are recharged and the power i have inside wants to go everywhere! hope you can keep up… haha…

i had the nicest email and comment from karin down in kyoto. i wanted to thank her for that and also wanted to wish her the best of luck in school, surfing, and happiness! i’m glad to have met you!! keep on surfing!!!
and i also wanted to thank everybody else that sent in comments about my wonderful world video. i’m glad i got to show you how much i enjoy surfing and how happy it makes me. if the whole world could enjoy surfing, we would all be living in a better place. but for now, nothing’s stopping me from living in “My Wonderful World!”
**CLICK HERE FOR KARIN’S BLOG FROM KYOTO….

Today Typhoon 12 Swell….


Today Cold and Small…
Tomorrow? I hope HOT and BIG!!!
Goodnight!