My first BIG ONO today!!! 30 lbs.
Sashimi Every Day!!!
I’m so Happy!!!

good sunday morning. 4 am and today is going to be another productive day. no, i’m not surfing. no, i’m not touching my computer. and no, i’m not answering any phone calls. today, i’m going to do something really spiritual. something that helps my surfing, something that helps my work, and something that helps me be nice to people. if i didn’t do it, i’d surf shitty, i couldn’t work, and i’d be an asshole.
I’M GOING DIVING!!!! YEAH!!!


when i was at sandy beach the other day, a truck pulled up early in the morning with a paddle board on the racks. it was keoni watson. keoni and i go way back. we use to surf contests back in the 80’s. keoni is one of the nicest guys you will ever meet. it was good to see him still loving the ocean….

great surfer, great paddler, great guy, and great waterman. and for those of you who don’t know keoni, he’s a big player in Billabong Hawaii, and Vertra Suncare. also a big wave surfer. but most of all, just a pure happy nice guy….

it was the first time i seen a paddle board up close. i bet these things are expensive. i wonder how much it costs for one? look how shinny the bottom is. i bet that thing is fast! hey keoni, i like try?

i wonder if he paddled to molokai? as i was driving home, i was wondering how i could test out a paddleboard. when i saw keoni jump in the water and paddle out past the lineup in seconds, i got a little excited. oh no, i better stop dreaming before you see me with one tomorrow. haha.. but really, if anyone has one i can try out, please let me know….
p.s. aren’t these photos cool? here is a friend of mine i knew for 25 years. after a quarter of a century, this is the first photo i have of keoni. i’m going to keep it forever because this is the happy face keoni i know. a guy that’s always smiling….

first of all, i’d like to thank King Kamehameha I for being so popular that we have a yearly holiday and parade here in hawaii. it’s this time every year when i position myself to be at the best spot at the time of the parade. it starts at 9 am so i make sure i’m at either ala moana park, or ala moana bowls before they close the roads. yeah, they close the roads and don’t let anybody in for 2 hours. that’s when i’m in the water with the other smart surfers. bowls was so empty and we all had a great time. can’t wait till next year. thanks again to the King….

i met up with toda-san. see him with the paddle board? we sat on the beach watching groups and groups of surfers coming out of the water before the parade started. i guess some people had to work today? anyway, as soon as it was past 8 am, it was time to surf. we paddled out and it was pretty empty. stoke!!

town or “south shore” has an image of concrete buildings and many people. i live in town. this is near my house. i don’t see concrete buildings or many people. i love living here and i’ll probably live her forever. i got the country out my window, and town 5 minutes away. can’t beat that!!!

i’ve been sleeping kind of happy recently. wake up early, have a very long productive day, hang out with friends at night, and sleep happy. tonight i have a dinner with my high school friends. we get together once in a great while because we’re all so busy. and that once in a great while is tonight. i can’t wait to see them. the only problem is that i have to run away early because i have to wake up at 4 am tomorrow morning. “hey guys, i have to use the toilet” then run out the back door. it always works. haha.. if i tell them the truth and say i have to wake up early tomorrow, they won’t listen and will buy me another shot. after 25 years, they still don’t understand that i don’t have a day off. but it’s ok because i still love them all….