good morning. 6:15 and guess what? new south swell!! today is the biggest day in a long time. it’s only 2′ but i’m excited! there are hundreds of hungry surfers in the water everywhere now. in 30 minutes, there will be another hungry surfer, me. there is a big parade going on from 9am this morning so if you don’t get to the beach by then, forget it. also, a WQS contest starting monday at bowls. all the hawaiians will be entering that one. should be good with this new swell. anyway, i better get going. have a nice weekend….

meet the doctors. sato-san and sato-san. two brother doctors from kagawa, shikoku that surf. we had a really fun day together trading stories. the funniest one was….
the younger of the sato brothers is on the right. he was surfing 15 years ago at uchizuma beach. he was sitting on his board and accidently fell off as it flew in the air. then this angry surfer paddled up to him and said “hey, watch out! your board could have poked my friend in the eye!”

that angry guy was Matchi….. hahaha… we were laughing all night at that story….

i miss hanging out at sandy’s. during my younger days, we use to hang out there every single day. surf, barbecue, body surf, barbecue, make trouble, and barbecue, and make trouble again. there were no cel phones, no computers, and no technology. it was just us kids having a good time. the sad thing is that those days will never be the same. i see kids these days hanging out with their friends while hanging on to their cel phones like it’s their girlfriends….

i have 1,245 more photos i want to show you from yesterday. of course this is far from the best. one a day for the next 4 years?
we are probably going to have 3 days of free surf time in japan when kelia is there. can you all please give me a surf report as time nears because i told kelia that we’re going where ever the best waves are. i’ve been doing that for the past 18 years and i want to share with her my lifestyle. and also want her to understand why i fell in love with japan. i hope she falls in love with japan too so we can surf good waves and eat good food all over the place….[:?????$B!x(B???:]

first, there were searching for a missing diver this morning. they found him dead. sad news…

sandy beach was the spot this morning. kelia and i were there from 6:15 am as the sun was rising, the bodyboards getting barreled, and the blow hole spitting. it was a really nice morning out there…

these are my 2 nieces. for my whole life, they have been like my own kids so i still think of them as kids. but recently, a lot of people have been telling me that i have to let go, meaning, come to my senses that they aren’t kids anymore, they are 2 beautiful young women. so 1 day ago, i said to myself that i’m going to treat them like young women and not as kids anymore. it’s a huge step for me but it’s about time i take it before i go to jail for punching some guy for looking at them the way they do. the other day when we came in from surfing bowls, one of the boys was staring at kelia at the shower. i almost went up to him and put my fist in his mouth. thank goodness i have self control these days…[:?????????:]

kelia wants to be a model. i think that’s the smartest thing she can do. being a pro surfer is good, but being a model is even better. more jobs, more opportunities, and more exposure. i took a few photos at the beach today and all of them are keepers. i was sorting through them and didn’t want to delete any. kelia is still my little niece and if you treat her bad, you better run faster than my speargun can fly….
**by the way, kelia is currently looking for a respectable model agency, preferably in japan. we’ve been shooting to build her portfolio and once it’s done, it will be like no others. if anyone is interested, please email me. mahalo…

Best Garlic/Butter Shrimp in Hawaii….