good evening. what a great day for waves in hawaii. the north shore was going off but fujiki-san and i decided to surf somewhere different where nobody was around. that was pretty easy. a secret spot somewhere on this island where it was only us riding any and every wave we wanted. that was a great call because i needed that. sunny skies, glassy conditions, beautiful scenery, and nobody around taking our waves…

after we surfed, we went to watch the waves at bowls. this surfer dude walked by me, jumped off the rocks, and walked back in with a huge gash in his foot. i was eating my delicious steak plate at the time and after i seen all that blood, my steak never tasted the same. yuck…

this guy is getting stitches for sure. and he ain’t surfing for a while too. i felt so sorry for him because i know how that feels. anyway, just to let you know, the tide is been low pretty much all day. the reef is sharp in town so please be careful….

this is fujiki-san from aichi-ken. a true surfer, and a true nice guy. we surfed together for almost 3 hours exchanging waves. after surfing today with nobody around, surfing crowded diamond head or bowls just isn’t going to be the same. fujiki-san, please don’t tell anybody where we surfed today. that’s my super duper secret spot. mahalo…

fresh manjyu from aichi-ken. and a bottle of jack-san as presents? i’m so lucky!!! thank you so much fujiki-san!!! keep on surfing and hope to see you again!!!
**by the way, the surf report screwed up this morning. they reported south shores at flat-1′. wrong!!! there was a new south/east swell that came in and the waves were good everywhere in town. bowls was uncrowded, so was rockpiles, and kaisers. even when i drove by queen’s at 1 pm, there were only 3 guys out. thanks hawaii surf reporter for screwing up. please report the waves flat-1′ in town everyday!!! mahalo…

another south swell?
2 pm surf check.
south swell, clean, empty!!!
go-naminori!!!

good morning. 6:30 am. waves in town waist high and clean. north shore came way down. pipe is looking 4-6′ and super good. they will probably finish up the volcom pipe pro today starting at 8 am. they only have the semi’s and final left so it should be done before the winds come onshore. i just checked the forecast and we have another big swell on the way but so are the north winds. shitty for surfing, great for diving. so surf the good conditions while it’s there, and once you see the north shore stormy and ugly later in the week, i’ll be on my boat in the clean offshore waters in town. can’t wait!!!
also, vol. 2 web magazine coming out soon. i just went through the preview and a lot of people are going to be stoked!!! got some good articles and photos so stay tuned!!!

i took some photos of the 2 girls yesterday. kelia moniz and coco ho are 2 girls from hawaii that have the talent to take over the world. i can’t wait to see how far they go…

ever heard of the health bar in diamond head? it’s on monsarrat avenue and has been there for years. my neighbor marcus owns it and has been trying to get me to go there for a while. yesterday was the day!!!!

can you believe it was the first time i’ve ever eaten a asai bowl? yeah, i’ve heard about it, seen it, but never tried it till yesterday. right after i took my first bite, i couldn’t believe what i’ve been missing out. it was soooo good!!!! i wanted to thank my neighbor marcus for letting us borrow your car, canoe, and for setting us up with the awesome health food. i’ll be back to the health bar very soon!!
and wanted to thank kelia and coco for the fun afternoon. keep your dreams alive…

and last, meet my new friend. he’s name is rob allen and he’s 140 cm long. i finally got a real gun to shoot marlin, tuna, ono’s, mahimahi’s, or anything big that comes my way. until now, i’ve been lucky and shooting big fish with my small gun. now, i’m prepared and ready to go. the bigger the better right???
some people say i waste my money on spear guns. i disagree. first of all, i got this gun cheap from kurt down at maui sporting goods. second, i don’t think it’s a waste of money when you buy something that brings food to your table. i’m going to write down every fish i spear with this gun and calculate how much sashimi i bring home. just one fish will pay this gun off. and if anybody i know spends money on hunting equipment, i would fully support their investment. ever since i started spear fishing, all the fish, lobster, tako, abalone, and everything else i caught is priceless. and the best part is that it keeps me in good health and works out my body better than any other form of exercise, even better than surfing. so please support my spear gun purchases in the future!! haha…