Bowls Head High and Fun and Clean!!!
South Swell again, again, and again….
South Shore Saiko!!!!

good morning. after such a long day yesterday, i wanted to sleep in. i turned off my phone and didn’t set my alarm. it’s still 7 am. i think my body is adjusted to waking up early. oh well…
big waves on the north shore. pipeline’s 12′ and to junky just as expected. town is chest/head high and a little bumpy too. bowls is looking pretty fun right now. light winds and clear skies.

i wanted to shoot underwater shots yesterday so i took out my goggles. i was swimming under shun and ma-kun and figured i’d show the boys how shallow backdoor is. this is the outside. imagine 6-10′ sets breaking right here? OMG!! i tried to swim more in to the impact zone to shoot the reef but it was so shallow that my camera was hitting the reef. that’s why when i paddled out in the afternoon, i was very careful and wasn’t going to take any chances. i told myself to just wait for a good one, and if i go, better make it. i just didn’t feel like hitting the reef yesterday….

as satoshi kubota took off, i swam underwater and waited for him to pass me. it was so cool watching him go right by that i almost forgot to take the photo. i snapped one at the last minute and here it is….
yesterday was the first time in a while is swam out with my fisheye. i forgot how fun it is to take photos. and i forgot to clean all the dust on my lens. and i forgot to charge my battery. as soon as i took my first shot, i looked at the lens and seen all the dust on it. and my battery light was blinking already. instead of getting all bummed, i just laughed at myself. that’s what happens when you try to do a million of things in such a short time…. will i slow down? no….

my sister called me yesterday telling me that isaiah just surfed his heat and made it on his last wave. he was loosing the heat and pulled it off at the end. so i jump up and turned on my computer. all i seen was the hawaiian team with the hawaiian flag running to the shoreline to congratulate isaiah. and i could hear on the phone was my sister, tony, and the kids screaming and cheering. i was lost for words….
**last, wanted to thank kimura-san and atusko-san for a wonderful korean dinner last night. and thank kinsan and ushikoshi for all the laughter… how was the raw korean oysters??? OMG!! the best!!!!

good evening. wow!! what a long day. it started at 5:30 when i woke up. i paddled out at dark to backdoor. the waves were 3-4′ and super fun. and as i was in some barrels, i could see the reef. yeah, the reef in the dark!! the water was sooooo clean!!! i already knew that i wanted to grab my fisheye and snap some underwater world…. so after i caught enough waves for the day, i went to grab my camera. right as the sun came up, the waves got super clean and perfect off shore. i shot for a while, then went back to my little room i’m renting to eat lunch. then i was planning to go to hayato’s house to take some photos and as i was passing by backdoor, perry dane called me and said “what you doing? grab your board, the waves are going off!!” eeh??? i stopped my car and went to check the waves again. OMG!! the swell came up and the conditions were perfect…. 5′ and epic backdoor. i was out there!!!
with the stiff off shore winds, backdoor is dangerous. the waves are 2x more hollow and very very shallow. i shot earlier so i knew how shallow it was. so i just wanted one good wave. i waited, waited, and waited. there were a lot of locals in the lineup so it wasn’t an easy day to get a set. 2 big A-Frame sets were coming in, makua got the first one, kamalei got the second one. then after i paddled over the second wave, i looked behind and there it was, a bigger 3rd set. i paddled, took off, bottom turned, and got a freakin good stand up barrel. then i came straight in….

and here it is. my perfect tube for today taken by kinsan. thanks kinsan for posting my memory on your blog. you don’t even know how happy i am….

here’s my lunch. spam saimin….

i went to pupukea foodland last night to get some ice cream for a hot happy day. today was hot and happy!! it’s so amazing how a barrel can brighten up one’s day….

TEAM YAMARI!! wanted to wish kimura-san and atsuko-san a warm welcome to hawaii. and thanks for all the fish!!!
**i worked hard today. when i was driving back to town, i almost fell asleep on the wheel. abunai!! i have a dangerous job but i love it!!! stay tuned for some cool photos i took this morning…