surf north shore!!! i left my house this morning prepared for anything. my boards are now in a safe place on the north shore so i can surf anything, anytime. everybody is pretty much here so i’ll be surfing a lot this next month…

haleiwa was the spot this morning. i pulled up and seen some 8′ sets. it was inconsistent but when it came, it came. then i seen this japanese guy pull up in a rent a car, check the waves, then seen him pull out his 6’0 and start walking out towards the beach. i already knew that he was in danger but didn’t want to say anything. i watched him try to paddle out. then i lost him as the sets started coming in. 20 minutes later, i seen him on the beach. thank goodness he made it back to the beach. just wanted to warn other daredevils, hey, check the waves for at least 30 minutes before paddling out. it could look small and fun but when the sets come, it ain’t fun. especially haleiwa. lifeguards come to work at 8:30 am so go out after that.
i surfed for a while and was lucky all day not to get cleaned up by a freak 6-8′ set. i figure, one more wave and i’m going in. as soon as i said that, the biggest set of the day came in and broke right in front of me. throw my board and swim under? no, maybe broken board. duck dive and get pounded? yeah, i’ll try. i duck dive, the explosion of the wave rips the board out of my hands and i hear a “CRACK” as the board hits my nose. “SHIT”, BROKEN NOSE? i grabbed my nose and it was in pain. i get pounded by 3 more sets and paddle in. i feel my nose, it hurts but not broken. “what the heck was that “crack” noise?” i look at my board and there is a big ding on the rail. yeah, the impression of my nose. i hit it so hard that my nose went through my board? i should have been a boxer….

itai!!! i still can’t believe my nose is so dam hard. i iced it down and it feels better but i’m still feeling like pinocchio…

i check backdoor/pipe in the afternoon. looks shallow and dangerous. i wanted to get wet so i paddled out to backdoor, caught one wave, paddled to off the wall, caught one wave, and came in. enough surfing for me. tomorrow the swell is dropping and everywhere should be going off!! dawn patrol?
anyway, hope you had a great day too. sweet dreams and see you in the water tomorrow!!!
**hana ga itai!!! means “my nose hurts”….

Afternoon Session….

good morning. 7 am and finally the waves cleaned up on the north shore. it looks 4-8′ and pretty dam fun. i’m going out there now!! can you believe town still has a little swell? bowls is waist high and pretty clean. looks like a long boarders dream wave. well, gotta go. have a nice day!!!

i was so excited to go diving yesterday that i forgot to close my back window and lock my car in the waikiki parking lot. from morning to evening, my car was open like this with everything in my car. after i came in to get my car, i was walking back to my car saying “OH MY GOSH”.

3 new boards, camera, jacksan, money, credit cards, and much more. i guess it was my lucky day because nothing was missing. i just wanted to thank all the bad guys from taking things from my car. you guys are cool….

i caught some nice kumu’s and munu’s. and if my spear shaft wasn’t bent, i could have a caught a lot more. it’s going to be a great week of dinner for me….

i come home freezing cold. then get invited to a japanese style barbecue complete with nabe and takoyaki. that sounded too good to be true. thanks maki-san and mitsuo-san for the awesome nabe!!!

and thank you yuko-chan and maki-chan for the awesome takoyaki!! i had a great time with great laughs. sorry i fell asleep on my chair. i was freakin tired after eating all that good food!! mahalos…..