i got an email from a guy in california asking me where’s the best place to go for his first surf trip. that was an easy one. INDONESIA BOAT TRIP!! i told mark to save his money, and to get his ass on a boat trip in indo. once you go on a boat trip in indo, your life will change forever. the freedom, the culture, the people, the experience, the fishing, the waves, and the friends you’ll meet. something you can’t get at a surf camp. i’ve been going on boat trips for the past 15 years and i’ll jump at any chance. ask me to go to a surf camp? ummm, maybe. ask me to go on a boat trip? shoots!!!

one of the main reasons i said indonesia is because you wake up to mornings like this. mornings like this everyday!! sheet glass perfect conditions…. imagine paddling into a wave, bottom turning into the barrel, watching the barrel go over your head while watching the sun rise over the mountain, pull out with your friend cheering for you from the channel, paddle back out, and do it all over again!!! that’s a good trip…. so my advise is to save around $3,000, jump on a boat in indonesia for 2 weeks, and i promise you your life will change forever…. if it doesn’t, something is wrong with you. haha…[:?????$B!x(B???:]

good evening. i had a feeling light house would be good and i was right. pulled up at 8:30am and there were only 2 guys out. if you looked from the top, you probably wouldn’t have paddled out. but these are the kind of days lighthouse is best. solid 4′ sets doubling up and you can get in 4 or 5 turns. i was planning just to get wet but ended up surfing for 2 hours. and when i went in, there was only one guy out. my new board is working pretty dam good so i’m putting it aside for my indo boat trip. i don’t want to ding it and the way i’ve been dinging and breaking boards recently, i ain’t taking any chances… windy day tomorrow but once again, if you know where to look, you will score. just don’t follow me.. haha…

i was at ala moana shopping center looking for a suitcase and passed by this big picture window. something caught my eye. it was a big kelia. bigger than me… did she grow that much? haha… by the way, i couldn’t find a good suitcase… i found a really good one but when i looked at the price tag at $1,150, i ran out of the store….

a little small bottle of mask defogger cost $3.89. everybody who dives or snorkels buys this at some point. wanna know a secret? buy a big bottle of johnson and johnson (no tears) baby shampoo and you’ll be surprised. it works better. a lot of my friends don’t believe me but they are actually using baby shampoo. i just refill these little bottles they leave in my boat. what ever works right….

did you know that tanaka of tokyo opened up next to the maitai bar in ala moana shopping center? eat some teppanyaki and head next door to drink a maitai. sounds good yeah?

and last, wanted to thank okumura-san and kazuya-san for bringing me some tokushima somen. i can’t wait to eat it!!! itadakimasu!!!!

4′ WINDY BUT GOOD WAVES. 1 SURFER OUT. GO-NAMINORI….