we pull up to haleiwa this morning. chest high and 50 longboarders. jump back in the car and head to my little secret spot around the corner. we pull up, nobody out and a lot of waves!!! i caught too many to count. and to make things better, my new board is MAGIC!! you’ll see me surfing a lot more now….

yayoi-chan is from yokohama. coming from the busy city to an empty sunny blue sky sandy beach with nobody out must have been weird… i even felt weird thinking about it. happy birthday yayoi-chan[:??$B!^(B??????:]

after a good surf session at a secret spot, a good lunch at a secret spot is a must. ever had beef stew pho? this is the only place in hawaii!! and i ain’t telling you where.. haha…
today was a wonderful secret day!
tomorrow kirby forecast: wake up at 5:30 am. if no winds, i’m going surfing and shooting photos. if onshore south/west winds, i’m going diving and shooting fish. either way, i’ll be a happy guy….
**i was a hawaii telcom customer for 20 years until i got talked 3 years ago by a friend into quitting and joining oceanic road runner for phone and internet connection. BIG MISTAKE!!! since then, my internet has shut down on me 4 days a week, and recently, everyday. i always have to reset my modem and computer to get the thing working and it takes up my time. and makes me frustrated. i’m the preacher of “time is money,” especially my time. i’m too dam busy to be sitting at home waiting for an internet connection and going back and forth resetting my modem. so after last night’s daily internet outage, i called up oceanic and cancelled my account. i’m going back with hawaii telcom and learning that the new DSL is just as fast as cable, i’m stoked. anyway, here’s my pros and cons of road runner vs. hawaii telcom.
oceanic road runner:
pros: nothing.
cons: have to share internet with thousands of others so slow speeds in the evening. or no speed for me.
expensive. and junk digital phone service. doesn’t work on power outages.
hawaii telcom dsl:
pros: cheaper. better phone service. still works on power outages. don’t have to share internet. got my private line.
cons: nothing.
come january 27th when i switch, i’ll be a happy man again… and i’ll do 30 blogs a day. haha. go easy, i’m joking…

I love this photo!!!
Who took it???

good morning. 6:15 am and the waves came way down on the north shore. it’s kind of dark but looks 2-3′. the swell is out of the north so rocky rights, pupukea, log cabins, and laniakea will probably be fun. i’m also looking at town and i see a lot of white wash. another small south swell? south winds today turning south/west by tomorrow. today will be a perfect day to surf the north shore. and tomorrow will be a perfect day to dive the east shore. and sunday will be a perfect day to barbecue. then next week south winds so good for surfing and diving!! wow, what a great year so far. i can’t wait to get into the water. see you out there!!!

just got my new boards. check out this TSSC mike woo. it’s a 6’1 and will be my short board for this winter. i’ll ride it anywhere on the north shore up to 5’….

i got glass on fins because i want to go back to the old days were i could feel the drive. now days, there are too many fins out that confuse me at times. this way, i can only ride it one way. and that’s the way i’m going!!!

a few people asked me the dimensions on my short board.
6’1 x 18 1/4 x 2 1/4.

these have been my dimensions for the past 15 years. even though i’m getting older, i refuse to go thicker and wider. i’d rater go over the falls… haha..
**and last, with the bad comes the good. 7 days after the deadly earthquake in haiti, a child is pulled from the rubble. BELIEVE…