good morning. it’s 6 am and there’s no sign of the new swell yet. i heard it supposed to get 5′ + so we shall see. as for now, the waves are small. chest high and windy too. 20 guys out at bowls. it’s going to be another beautiful day and i’ll be surfing all day long. i’m going to surf somewhere totally different and looking forward to it. anyway, have a nice day!!!

check out some of the shells i brought back from north sumatra. pretty rare or what? i got a pretty cool collection at my house. all in ziplock bags….

our trip to the philippines 2 years ago was one to remember. the crew, the waves, and the food poisoning will never be forgotten….

check out the surftech hard rock cafe state championship tshirts they gave out to the competitors this year. yup, that’s seth moniz doing the backside snap i taught him how to do. haha… this shirt is a keeper…
**oh, please stop emailing me about the free stickers. i got 48 emails and i said 5 at first, but now i made it 10. thanks for all your emails and kind comments. if you see me in japan, i’ll give you stickers. we didn’t make too many so they will probably run out fast. anyway, if you were one of the lucky 10, please send me your address and i’ll have it in the mail next week. mahalo….
1. matt from hawaii.
2. daisuki-san from miyazaki.
3. ricardo from brazil.
4. takeshi-san from aomori.
5. george from southern california.
6. nakajima-san from ???
7. russell from maui.
8. genjimilo from chicago.
9. yoshimoto-san from nara.
10. junior from kamakura.


and last, somebody forgot their dirty panties on the side of the street in waikiki. do you recognize them?? haha…

good evening. diamond head was so beautiful today. i went surfing with 54 year old funakoshi-san from osaka. funakoshi-san just started surfing a few years ago and told me his life has totally changed, in a good way. he feels a lot more healthy, and active. he rode a shortboard for the first time in his life and surfed really good. ask funakoshi-san if it’s ever too late to start surfing. i know what he’s going to say. “heck no”….
**start surfing and live a happier and healthier life….

the hawaiian vintage auction this past weekend sold $767,546 of surfboard and misc. collectables. that’s pretty crazy…

on a hot day, refreshing yogurt is the call. and that’s just what i did the other day. i went to munchies at ward warehouse…

mango tart, lychee tart, with mochi and gummy bears on the top. my favorite….

meet your worst nightmare. this is my friend derek. i’ve known this guy for 20 years from surfing. the coolest bruddah with a good heart. for the past 10 years, every time i see derek, he tells me about a photo he took of me surfing backdoor a long time ago. i heard it about 100x and when i seen him yesterday in the parking lot, i heard it again. except this time, he actually brought it with him…. by the way, derek is doing the shaka for the boys in hawaii, and the peace sign for the boys in japan…..

this is back in 1999. derek shot this from the beach while i was pulling into a perfect backdoor barrel. that’s bodyboard champ mike stewart going left at pipeline. i’m so stoked to see this photo after all the talk over the years. thanks bro…
**oh, the reason why i call derek “your worst nightmare” is because not too many surfers know that derek use to be a national boxing champion when he was young. sometimes i see clueless surfers mess with him and they end up getting knocked out. yeah, this guy is the real deal so watch out….

Shun and Me @ Kewalo’s.