Everybody says the ice bath is mental.  I disagree because my mental is pretty strong when it comes to pain.  The cold is different.  I almost froze to death a few times in the snow mountains.  I almost froze to death surfing in South Africa too.  And after the first cold winter living in Japan, I moved back to Hawaii before the next one.  It’s something about the cold that my body can’t tolerate.  But the only way to get stronger is to keep on trying right?

Tony taught me how to surf big waves by taking me out to huge surf that I wasn’t ready for.  So I wouldn’t be surprised if he closed the lid of the freezer on me.  Haha.

Back in the day:  Rikiya “Heaven on Earth” on Go-Naminori Boat Trip in Mentawai 2000.

Good morning 4am.
North shore head high and perfect.
Ala Moana knee high and slow.
Diamond Head waist high and fun.
Light Southeast winds so North shore better conditions.
Rain, showers, and maybe sun.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

Yoyo’s is located on the island of Sumbawa.  You have to be experienced to surf out there because if you make a mistake and go straight, you will hit the dry reef.  There is no going around that.

Bali has a couple good foiling spots.  You can rent a diver and boat for $35/hour and have the time of your life.  The driver will tow you into some of the longest waves of your life.  Your legs will be hurting after that one hour tow-in session.

Timor is a very remote island that takes a lot of time and money to get to.  It probably took 3 days to get to this spot but once you get there, the fish are everywhere.  Waves are epic too.  One of the best trips for a surfer/diver.  I speared the biggest fish of my life there but I’ve seen even bigger ones than this.

Every time I get back from Indonesia, I tell myself it’s way to far so that’s going to be my last trip.  I’ve been saying that for the last 20 trips.  Haha.  There’s something about that place that makes it worth the travel time.  I’m starting to look for a new Indo destination for next year.