good morning. 6:30am and the waves still looking good in town. seen some solid 3′ sets, maybe 4′ at bowls. clean and not that crowded. sunny skies, off shore winds. looks pretty nice outside. oh, wanted to wish jasmin a happy birthday!! hope you have a great party in chiba. take care and have a nice day…..

wow, surfline.com did a huge story on the groms attacking the north shore. my nephew’s, niece, alyssa, and some of the other hawaiian groms did the audio. check it out because it’s pretty classic. this is seth moniz ready to hack the lip at big rights…
**CLICK HERE FOR STORY ON SURFLINE. MAKE SURE YOU TURN THE AUDIO ON….

good evening. wanted to thank everyone for their concern. it feels pretty comforting getting sympathy emails from people i don’t even know. and encouraging to hear that my blog makes them want to live a happy life. i just got back home and it didn’t feel the same when i stepped off the airplane. mixed emotions i guess. i’ll just leave it at that….. but thanks again for your concern because it really helps….

bad medicine: i’m still trying to fight off this cold. been taking tylenol for the past 3 days and been feeling like shit. all the chemicals making me feel dizzy and drugged out. i forgot to lock the club house in shikoku one day. and when i stayed in a osaka hotel last night, i woke up in the morning looking for my key. i ended up finding it hanging in the key hole outside of my room. that’s just not me. i’m lucky it was japan. anywhere else, i would have been robbed silly…

good medicine: i jumped in the water today. as soon as i put my head under the water, my cold was gone. i felt fresh and clean. found a golden nugget 4′ barrel at big rights which made it all that better. it’s amazing how the ocean heals. totally amazing….
**as for the waves, heard the past 2 days were really good on the south shore. a couple guys told me that i missed it. guys, i didn’t miss anything. today was 4′ and super good for me. it felt good to be back in the water. got a lot of things going on this week so better go to sleep. goodnight…..

aloha, just wanted to let everybody know that lester falatea’s paddle out ceremony at waimea bay was moved to friday morning. so it’s not today. keep you posted on the time… mahalo…