Tuesday September24日 2024年

From Deep Forest Jungle to Concrete Jungle…


the day after i got back from the philippines, i had to go to tokyo for a couple of meeting. i’ve been to tokyo over 100 times but everytime i go, i get a little culture shock. just to think, i was in the jungle a couple of days before this. tokyo is one place where a guy like me could never live….

i’m a people watcher. i can sit down all day and watch people go by. and the best place in the world to people watch is in shibuya. thousands of people pass through this intersection evertime the light turns red. i wonder what would happen if this traffic light broke? it would be nuts….

then from hot, to cold. i was wearing trunks, t-shirt, and slippers a few days go. now i’m in jeans, long sleeve shirts, and shoes. but it’s ok because i have new clothes that i always wanted to wear….

this is this falls SPICE CLOTHING collection. spice makes the coolest clothes and i’m stoked because it fits perfect and all my friends back home like it. but they can’t have it. haha….

Earthquakes, Snakes, and Tigers…..

good morning on this beautiful cold sunday morning in japan. gosh, yesterday was another great day of surfing. it all started off at 3:47am when i awoke to a big earthquake. not the side to side kind, but the up and down kind. my alarm was set at 3:55am anyway so i got up and left forgetting to brush my teeth. nah.. went to tokura-san’s house, loaded up his van, and headed to pick up the yugawara groms….

this was the sunrise on the way. gosh, it’s been so long since i saw the sun. i forgot how happy it makes me feel….

these are the yugawara groms. ryota and shun. both 10 years old or so and rippers. it was shun’s first time to a river mouth so i was stoked to be with him. i guarantee he will never forget this day… i’ve never seen two groms get so many barrels in a day…. ryota and shun are coming to hawaii this winter season. they are going to freak…. can’t wait…

this was the wave when we first pulled up. this is a secret river mouth so i can’t say where it is. just that it’s near a big mountain. anyway, big mountain river mouth was going off…. perfect overhead barreling super long lefts. i’ve been surfing perfect rights all year so it felt good going backside on a wave where you could do anything you want. pull in, or hit the lip. just glassy perfection…. score again. i feel like i got so many good waves this year that some surfers won’t experience in their whole lifetime. just wanted to thank the people that always make it happen for me. i’m sitting on my bed typing this with a pretty big smile on my face. life is good…..

there is a river you have to cross to get to big mountain river mouth. in the river, there are deadly snakes and alligators so you have to be careful where you walk. once you get through the river, there are bushes that have bears and tigers hiding inside. it’s a pretty nuts place so i wouldn’t go there if i were you….
**anyway, wanted to thank toda-san, takami-san, and the big mountain locals for sharing their waves with us. had a great time and can’t wait till next year… doomo arigato gozaimasu….

Free Wallpaper from Go-Naminori…

good morning. i’m going to chase typhoon 15. the waves came up out of the south yesterday so today should be cranking. see you in the water…

hello everyone, we just put up some free wallpaper on go-naminori. just click on a photo and it will download to your desktop. CLICK HERE TO GO TO THE DOWNLOAD PAGE…..

this is called a “daiko”. it’s like a taxi service in japan except they drive your car home. if you drink one beer and drive in japan, you will get caught in a roadblock. then it’s $3,000 per drunken passenger + driver. so we call these guys to pick us up. two guys pull up in a car, one guy jumps into your car and drives everybody home. all for around $30. well worth it. i wish we had these guys in hawaii…