good morning. wow, got some waves out there in the north shore today. pipeline is 3-4′ with perfect conditions. 15 guys out now and up the road at sunset, it’s a little bigger. perfect for the billabong junior pro going on at sunset beach. town still has some waves too. head high at most spots with clean conditions. the winds are a litte weird now but should be blowing trades soon. take your pick…. a lot of things going on today. there is a parade in waikiki and the thunderbirds show will start at 2:30pm. that’s going to be awesome. also, the UH football game starts at 2:30pm on tv. i’m still thinking of a way to watch both. maybe get a hotel room in waikiki and watch the game while looking out the window as the jets fly by? there’s probably 10,000 other people that have the idea and all the hotels are probably sold out. or maybe go in the mountains and sneak a peak at the pilot when he makes his turn around. ummm… anyway, i ain’t missing anything. have a nice day eh, no drop in yeah….

i was out in waikiki yesterday and was looking at diamond head through my lens. gosh, this frame looked like the mentawai’s. if you been there, you know what i mean….

some of the boys friends were at the house painting their brand new boards. even kalua picked up the spray can…..

nice black rails… the kid with the white t-shirt is kaimana jaquias. yes, the son of famous pro surfer kaipo jaquias from kauai. kaipo is a lifeguard in kauai and still rips. rips hard enough to be right back in the top 44…..

when ever i travel around the world. friends give me t-shirts and stuff. this is one of my favorite t-shirt i got from Ieki-san in kyoto. he owns this japanese pear farm. i get a lot of compliments when i wear this in hawaii. i went to eat lunch at patti’s chinese kitchen today and the ladies were reading the kanji. they probably wanted this t-shirt but there’s no way…..

good evening. gosh, today was such a beautiful day again. i got up early and headed down to queen’s with kelia. my sister told me she’s been ripping so i wanted to see it for myself. we only stayed out for an hour but i could tell by the few waves she caught, her confidence level is up. she’s going with the flow of the ocean and her surfing got a lot better from the last time i seen her…

kelia has been doing this new trick recently. the first time i seen it, i freaked out. how the heck? she would stand on the nose hanging five with only one foot. i got the sick shot today but you won’t be able to see it for a while. it’s one of those shots that will make some magazine for sure so i want to save it. kind of like the dane kealoha photo. it’s amazing how much kelia matured in her surfing and she’s only going to get better and better. i’m stoked to be able to document her progress….

here are some more shots from this morning. i’ve been learning some new things about my camera. things i learned off the internet. i figured out so many mistakes i was making. mistakes like using a cheap shitty filter on my freakin expensive lens. kind of defeats the purpose. i took that piece of crap off and the photos are so much sharper now. gosh, why didn’t anybody tell me that earlier???

there were even some barrels out there this morning….

this japanese girl was ripping today. sorry i forgot your name…. gomenasai….

i went to drop off kelia after we surfed. kalua was so happy to see her back home. oink oink….
**after driving to every single computer store in hawaii to find a hard drive, i finally found one at UH bookstore. hope it works… then i jumped in at kewalo’s for a surf. the waves were 3′ and so good. the rights were barreling.. i took off on my first wave, pulled into the barrel, then while i was looking out the hole, i seen some asshole dropping in. oh my gosh!!! i had to bail. i was pissed. i took 2 deep yoga breaths and went in. i thought to myself, i won’t be able to catch my flight to japan on monday from jail. come on guys, stop dropping in. that’s something i would never ever do… haha. paybacks a bitch….

good morning. 6am here on this aloha friday. the waves are GOING OFF!!!! i seen some solid 4’+ sets at bowls. 12 guys on it now. the swell looks solid, the winds are light, and the conditions are epic. could this be the swell of the summer? maybe…. i’m out of here. see you in the water…..

i went to drop off a 50lbs bag of corn yesterday to kalua. gosh, that pig is huge. getting bigger and bigger. he must weigh around 300lbs and is not even 1 year old. been going up in the mountains checking out the pigs and all of kalua’s brothers and sisters are gone. even the mom. i guess the dogs got them but that’s part of life for a wild pig. kalua seems to be happy and loving life. he gets to eat more mango’s than i do. lucky pig…..

when i saw him eating these perfect ripe mango’s, i got jealous. recently, a lot of people have been asking me about kalua and i just want to let them know that he’s perfectly fine. just a little overweight. just a little.. haha…[:??$B”y(B???:]

the cool thing about japan is that there is so much culture. there are so many temples almost ever where you go. in the city and in the country. this is a temple in wakayama. i still don’t understand the full meaning of temples but when ever i see one, i can feel the energy…..