good evening… surfed for over 4 hours today. big rights was pretty fun in the morning. over head and clean conditions. got a few barrels so i was stoked. nobody was out when i got out then when i was about to go in, all the boys came out. ronnie, cedric, nick, and others. i went in to eat lunch and have my brownie with a glass of milk. i knew it was a matter of time when they would all come in so i waited and paddled back out at 2pm. sure enough, they just came in. good timing!!! the waves got bigger and better. only kyle and a few other guys out. score!!! the waves were pumping. got barreled again and went in after 4pm. then as i was paddling in, ronnie, nick, and more of the boys were paddling out. i gave them a handshake with a big smile on my face… i guess they saw my last barrel… haha… i had a great day surfing today and can’t wait till tomorrow to do it all over again… thanks to all the boys out at big rights for sharing that special wave… and sorry if i caught too many today. i know you guys understand that i haven’t surfed for a while… right?? see you tomorrow….

this is bowls at 11am. no parking, a lot of surfers, and perfect peeling lefts. i seen my nephew micah in the parking lot and asked him how the waves were. he told me “shitty”. i wanted to give him a good scoldings…. that kid doesn’t know what “shitty” is….

as i was pulling out of bowls, i seen this truck with the coolest sticker on the back window. it said “I just want to get barreled”. i pulled on the side to ask where she got that sticker from but the girl was talking on the phone so i couldn’t get her attention. gosh, i really want that sticker… oh, and wanted to say hi to the japanese guy and girl that pulled on the side of me at the stop light. thanks for checking out my blog… sorry i couldn’t stop to talk. the light turned green so had to go.. hope to see you somewhere sometime again…. mahalo…

yet another surfer killed from a shark. that’s two people dying from shark attacks this week. gosh, that’s really sad….

and last, don’t forget that we’re at war right now. even though this week has been the most deadliest for american troops, the innocent get caught in the crossfire too. during war, nobody wins. we all lose…

good morning. 6:45am on this windy cloudy high surf advisory tuesday morning. bad weather again but the waves look good. solid 4′ in town with bowls the biggest. got 12 guys sitting at the big bowl. the park is packed and looks a little smaller. heard big rights was packed all day yesterday. well, now it’s going to be more crowded because i’m out there. see you in the water…. oh, by the way, north shore got some little waves breaking this morning. everybody go surf!!!

did you know i can bake? felt like eating something sweet so went to longs to pick up some brownie mix. mixed it up and stick it in the oven at 350 degrees.

30min later, take it out of the oven…

and ate a warm piece with a glass of cold milk… then got a sugar rush and couldn’t sleep last night….
**when ever i’m in wakayama, kimura-san always takes me to the fishing port right in front of his house. i like to hang out there and see what the fishermen bring in. lobsters? fish? shirasu? tako? i don’t know, everyday is different. that’s the cool thing…. check out this days catch….

good evening… gosh, what an awesome day of surfing. surfed for 4 hours and had a lot of fun. i learned how to surf at this secret spot called seconds about 27 years ago. and i haven’t been back there since high school. well, until today… checked it this morning and it was perfect with only 3 guys out. from the paddle out, to my first wave, to the walk back in, the memories just kept on coming and coming. remembering riding my bike down to carter’s house after the school bell rang, racing out to the lineup, surfing till evening, the shark stories, our little surf gang, racing back to carter’s house for the shower, and everything. all good memories of being a kid. i even pulled into a closeout barrel just to see how it felt. gosh, i felt like i was in high school again. had a great memorial session….

the weather was cloudy today but who cares? the waves were going off all day long…. i’m surfed out but still need more….

i was hanging out with ito-san and goto-san from hiroshima all day today. these two guys started surfing 5 years ago and are super stoked on it… it was cool to see them enjoying surfing as much as they did….

down in tahiti was crazy a few days ago. big and dangerous… this is the same swell that’s hitting our south shores right now and the best is yet to come. i’m getting up early tomorrow and surfing all dam day. please stay out of my way.. haha… see you in the water….

CLICK HERE FOR THE CRAZY ASS VIDEO OF TAHITI….

and last, thank you so much naohiro and family for bringing the fresh yamari shirasu from wakayama. oh my gosh…. i’m so happy…..