good big thursday evening. gosh, the waves where huge today on the north shore…. crowded, huge, and clean…

passed waimea bay around 10am and seen some 15′ sets. 50 guys out with 7 surfers per wave. that place is out of control…..

dove boss tokura-san came today and cameraman nakajima-san came yesterday. what perfect timing… if they came a month ago when we had bad weather and small waves, that would have sucked…. but from now, the waves should be good all winter… welcome to hawaii….

the traffic around waimea bay was nuts. town bound was backed up to foodland and waimea bound was backed up all the way to the traffic lights at haleiwa. it kind of pisses me off when tourists drive by waimea and slow down to check the waves causing all the traffic. but you know what’s funny, i do the same thing too… but slower… slow enough to take this photo…. haha… tomorrow more big waves, more traffic, and a lot more people….
**by the way, heard the waves at diamond head were going off today!! overhead and perfect conditions….

this was the left off waimea bay. one of the most dangerous lefts in the world. in fact, it’s unsurfable. but you know what? i heard about 15 years ago, mark occhilupo surfed that left at waimea bay when it was 20′. and also heard he was ripping it too…..

and last, check out this photo of the earth setting over the moon’s horizon… that’s sick….

good morning. 6:30am thursday morning. high surf warning up for the north shores. pipe is huge and breaking from the third reef. it’s going to be a waimea bay day. town has some small waves too, looks chest high and i bet diamond head is going off again. going north. have a nice day!!!

gosh, have you been to aloha tower recently? i haven’t been there in a long time but it’s a pretty cool place to hang out and got some pretty cool shops….

and the sunset from there is awesome too…. it’s been a while since i’ve seen such a cool sunset light up the skies yellow, purple, and pink. cool….

and last, itai….

good evening. left early to the north shore again this morning and got out there around first light. i ran to check the waves and i seen a perfect 6′ backdoor wave go unridden with 25 guys out. i thought to myself, yeah, i’m going to score!! so i ran back to my car to grab my 7’0. then as i ran back to the beach, i seen another 6′ backdoor wave go unridden. i thought something was wrong so i watched the waves for a little while standing on the waters edge. then i seen a solid 10′ second reef set break and i figured out why nobody was on those backdoor waves. so there i was standing on the beach ready to surf 10-12′ pipe with my only gun i took out there today, my 7’0. which was way to short for those waves. so do i turn around and not surf? ummm, no. i figure just go out and get one. as i was paddling out, i seen a lot of waves go unridden. guys were just pulling back so i was wondering. so here come a 8′ backdoor wave and i start to paddle for it. just as i was about to stand up, i looked in towards the beach and seen something weird. i saw a 3′ wave coming toward the wave i was about to catch? shit, it was the backwash…. because there is so much sand on the beach, the waves were going onto the beach and bouncing back out to sea. there were 3′ backwash waves on almost every wave. that’s dangerous… so you had to be selective and look at your wave and look if another wave is coming from the beach before you take off. if i knew that, i wouldn’t have paddled out…. but it felt good being in the ocean with so much water moving… feels like the real north shore.. i even had butterflies in my stomach… anyway, the contest started at 9am so everybody had to go in. the waves cleaned up throughout the day and as the waves washed the sand off the beach, the backwash became less. it turned out to be a beautiful day…. can’t wait till tomorrow….

i shot this photo around 9:30am. look good and you can see the backwash coming out into the wave. did this guy make it? hell no….

off the wall was going off too. well, that’s if you can make it out. i paddled out there to try to catch my last wave in. then some freak second reef sets cleaned me and the other 2 guys up. roy powers caught the last one in and i heard he got hurt. shit, lucky it wasn’t me…. north shore power!!!

after i went to hang out at the billabong house to watch the contest with the moniz family… that house is sick… i wish i can own something like that someday….

seth charges so hard that i always forget he’s only 10 years old. i had to make trouble to him….

and yeah, alyssa and kelia… two posers…. haha… just joking….