good evening. gosh, you won’t be able to find me in the dark now. unless i smile. yeah, i’m as black as can be. the only thing white on me are my teeth. even my eyes are sunburned…. we left the yacht harbor early this morning and headed straight to big rights. the waves came down a little from yesterday but it was still solid 4′ and perfect. shot a few photos of the boys, then grabbed my board and caught a few good ones. also busted out my video camera too so a video clip will be up tomorrow morning. but for now, check out our awesome session….
this is the kid sheldon i took surfing the other day. he and isaiah paddled out this morning and destroyed big rights. he paddled out, did snaps, airs, and got barreled on every wave. remember this kid because if he stays on the right track, he’ll be the next sunny garcia coming out of the west side… check out this snap. i didn’t know that kids are supposed to do these….
even craig sako was getting barreled today. craig is the chef at orchids restaurant in the halekulani hotel. he’s heading to japan in october with chef marvo for a 2 week cooking tour. i wish i can go with them. hey, i can cut the potatos and onions. and wash dishes too….
i took so many good photos of jun jo this summer. this is a throw away photo because i have a lot more better ones. good surfers are easy to shoot. and jun is a good surfer….
shun waxed up his brand new tssc matchi shaped 5’0 and charged big rights. the boys gave him a couple sets and he didn’t hold back. check this little kid doing the occy bottom turn….
this is superman hayato on a super good wave. hayato came 3 days ago and caught more waves than a normal surfer does in a month here. 3 days and surfed out. he can’t wait till the waves get flat so we can go diving… yeah, me too…
after 20 years, i finally found one japanese surfer that doesn’t know who shuji kasuya is. that’s shun murakami. shun was talking to shuji this morning and after when we were eating lunch, i asked shun if he knew who shuji is. he told me “who’s that?”… haha… hayato and i were cracking up….
if you want to take over the lineup at some spot, you better be able to surf. ronnie yamada can surf…
**wanted to thank all the boys at big rights for giving shun a couple of sets. i took 200 photos of everybody and the gallery should be up in a day or two. depending on the waves right? haha… got some sick photos and your going to be stoked…. stay tuned on GO-NAMINORI….
**also have so many more photos and videos to post but too dam busy and too many things happening here. it’s all on my desktop and it’s coming soon. depending on the waves right? haha…. 3 more south swells on the way….
Big Big Rights….
White Sharks Can't Jump….
good morning. 5:30am big thursday. solid south swell in town. seen some consistent 4′ sets at bowls and there’s probably even bigger ones. clean conditions right now. if it’s anything like yesterday, score. 3 more south swells on the way. best best best summer ever. my legs and arms are so tired from being in the water but i just can’t get enough…. i’m out of here… have a nice and safe day….
my brother went fishing the other day and caught some aku, or katsuo. he asked me to cut it for him but i was too dam tired. i’m glad hayato is here…
and i was too tired to cook. i’m glad hayato is here… haha… itadakimasu… oh, he’s torching the sashimi to make the outside burn. it’s called “katsuo tataki” in japanese… oishi yo….
here is shun getting ready for the feast… good food after a good day. same thing today….
**2 years ago when i was in bali. i was surfing bingin when i seen this 6′ shark jump out of the water right in front of me. it didn’t scare me at all because i see sharks all the time. that night, i told bol and garut that i seen a shark jump out of the water. and you know what? they laughed at me. they told me that sharks can’t jump. now i get the last laugh.. haha…
look bol…
look garut…
now do you believe???? you better believe or else a shark will jump right in front of you someday.. haha… by the way, this guy is doing a pretty nice turn….
Superman Surfer….
another another another long long long day day day…. gosh, i don’t know how i get the energy to do the things i’ve been doing these days. i feel like superman or something because i’ve been surfing, diving, shooting, swimming, playing, and playing. not to mention the hours spent on my computer… but you know what? i’m pretty happy doing what i’m doing…. tired, but happy…. so today was like every other day. surf, shoot, and play… left home before 6am and was looking into a pretty killer sunrise….
check out these happy kids. shun was so happy to ride on my boat along with seth and hayato. he was smiling the whole way out… the waves were solid 4′ for adults, and 6′ for the 2 kids. but they were charging hard. i wish i could show you the photos i took but sorry. have to wait. but just let me say that the waves were big doubling up barrels over dry reef. seth and shun were pushing each other and that was cool to see. it would be even cooler to see them in the future splitting a peak at backdoor/pipe….
i will only show you one photo from today. this is superman hayato. and this is real. here’s the story behind the photo: hayato can surf, dive, shoot photos, fish, and pretty much do everything. so i told him that i bet he couldn’t fly. he looked at me with a smile as he paddled back out and said “watch”…. shit, hayato can ficken fly too. so his new nickname is “SUPERMAN”….. sick photo yeah….
**oh, today was so long that i forgot we surfed big rights this afternoon. best day of the summer? yeah. uncrowded? yeah. was everybody happy? yeah. am i out there tomorrow morning? yeah. can you give me all the sets? yeah? haha…. see you out there. oh, wanted to say thanks to the boys out there today for sharing the waves with all japanese pro’s. kazuya, hayato, and keito were getting sick waves… please share tomorrow too ok? thanks guys….
**and last. sorry everybody for putting everything like meetings and emails aside. you must know by now that i’m too busy enjoying my job. i know you understand so just wanted to say thanks….