Sunday December22日 2024年

Tokushima Night/River Mouth Day…..


the other night wa a blast. everything was going ok until jacksan showed up. thanks hashitate for picking him up. after that, it was lights out… oh, wanted to say something about the person in the front. honjo-san is the nicest guy. we use to surf JPSA’s together about 10 years ago. we were on our way back on the ferry to shimoda from niijima island and he offered me a ride home. i asked him to drop me off at the train station but he refused. he ended up driving another hour past his house to drop me off in fujisawa. i will never forget that. one of the reasons i love japan is that the people here are so kind. and honjo-san is one of them. thanks again honjo-san….

this was a late night kampai!!! i remember sneaking out the front door right after this. i heard matsuo was pissed at me for leaving but he forgot about it the next day anyway. haha….

pulled up to this spot this morning. i forgot the name but shit, it was good again. smaller than yesterday but much cleaner…..

a closer view. i swam out to get a few shots after this. i’m too burnt to download the photos now. check them out tomorrow. have a great evening….

hey guys, look what’s on the way! typhoon sepat… south/west swell? umm, i wonder where’s the spot….

Welcome to my New Blog….

hello everybody. welcome to my new blog. i’m still trying to figure out this new system so please be patient. patience is something i can’t do but please try[:????????$B!r(B:] now i have all these fun little stuff i can play around with[:???:] i kind of feel like a chick…. haha…
anyway, i went to the 34th annual bob contest in tokushima, shikoku. it’s always a fun contest to go to. bob-san is such a nice guy. if you don’t know who he is, he’s the one charging big haliewa at first light every winter morning on the north shore. the waves in tokushima wasn’t anything like haleiwa but it was still fun and challenging….

japanese style of starting the contest. everybody comes out of the water for the opening ceremony. i think this is so cool…..

i told you the waves were challenging. i give every competitor in the contest. they were all surfing good and made it look easy. i grabbed a board, jumped in, and couldn’t even stand up….

i went to go sit on the jetty to watch the waves and i felt something biting my foot. these little bugs were all on my foot. what the heck is this? can you eat it? might be good with some butter and garlic….

this is the other side of the jetty. the waves were a little cleaner because the jetty was blocking the wind. but it was a lot smaller too…

this is the tent area. want to try a brand new TSSC board? take your pick…..

this guy drove up to the beach, caught a few waves, jumped back on his 4 wheeler, and was gone. smart guy….

so here’s the deal. your in the final, your heat starts in 3 minutes, the waves are small and onshore, and you only have 12 minutes. i wonder what this guy is thinking. oh wait, i know. i’ve been in situations like this. he’s thinking i can’t wait for a cold beer after this…. [:?????????:]haha..