good morning. 5am wednesday morning. woke up early and was going to surf the north shore but it’s looking pretty small. way down from yesterday. maybe 3′? the full moons shining so i can see the waves everywhere. rocky point looks pretty good. town has some small waves too but kind of messy due to the onshore winds blowing all day. you know where the spots today? east side. the winds are straight off shore and the waves are flat! perfect for diving…. it’s going to be a tough call. i’m going to sit on my computer for another 30 minutes and make the call. surf or dive? or both. have a nice day and see you in the water somewhere…
**and wanted to thank my friend wendell kong for the email. he wrote “i love your job too”…. thanks man. that means a lot to me….

for those of you who don’t know, this is barack obama. obama is from hawaii and went to punahou high school. i tried to get in to punahou too but they said i was too smart. haha… just joking…. but obama is running for the president of the united states and i hope he wins. we need some “ALOHA SPIRIT” in the white house. wait, let me take that back. we need some “ALOHA SPIRIT” in this WORLD…..

locals supporting locals….. go obama…. make it illegal for tourists to surf pipeline…. haha….
**last night’s vote in hawaii?
OBAMA 28,000
CLINTON 8,000

good evening. what another beautiful day we had here in hawaii. perfect sun, perfect winds, and perfect waves…..

i went to check pipe at 7:15am and this was the first time i felt sick watching the waves. why? because there was a bodyboard contest. it was perfect 8′ pipe and backdoor aframe peaks all over. shit, these guys always score… i was pretty sad leaving the parking lot heading towards haleiwa…..

pulled up to haleiwa before 8am. i knew it was going to be perfect because of the swell direction and winds. so i just parked my car and grabbed my board without even checking the waves. as i got to the beach, i only seen 4 guys out. what? i was thinking there was a shark or something. got out to the lineup and the waves were perfect 4-6′ peeling rights. i caught so many waves until my leash broke. had to swim against the current from the outside, which wasn’t too fun. grabbed another leash and my 6’2 and headed back out. little by little it started getting crowded and by 10am, there were 40 guys out. i had my fun in the morning so i just went in. then the winds came onshore right after. i took this photo at 11am. onshore but still fun. i guess it pays off to wake up early…

then headed to glenn minami’s shaping room to pick up a couple new boards. a 6’6 and 7’2. feels so good and can’t wait to ride it tomorrow….

i came home around lunch time and checked my email. paul gordinho sent me some photos from this morning. gosh, i felt like i was surfing haleiwa by myself. look how smooth and perfect the face is. not my face. the waves face….haha….. this was my 6’4 round pin matchi shape….

then here is the inside toilet bowl. i didn’t know i can still do turns like this. i was ready to give up surfing for bodyboarding already…. but i remember eating shit right after this frame. who cares, i got the shot…. thanks gordinho for letting me relive my super fun haleiwa surf session this morning. i’m going to be an early bird again tomorrow.
**i love my job… just thought i’d say that….

good morning. should have some waves today. and should be clean before the onshore winds mess things up around 10am. so get it early….. have a nice day and see you in the water…..

check out this photo. on monday, feb. 11th, korea’s number 1 national treasure was burned to the ground. the namdaemum was a gate in the original walls surrounding seoul back in the joseon dynasty. it was constructed in 1395. yes, i said 1395. what a tragic lost. it’s like the eiffel tower in paris burning down, or like the colluseum in italy burning down. that’s pretty heavy…. by the way, a 69 year old man set it on fire. why? don’t ask me….
***the pipeline bodyboarding contest is starting today. if they get anything like how they got last year, they will score. the waves were perfect 10′ and the spongers were going off. jeff hubbard was the man. check out this video….