It’s been absolutely beautiful recently. So much wildlife in the lineup. I see at least 5 turtles a day. Sharks, monk seals, rays, and lots of fish too.
This 100lbs. GT swam right under me twice this week. That fish is so big that it looks like a shark!
Today round 1: Chest high sets and perfect conditions. Rocky has been reading the ocean well and is finding good waves.
Surfing smooth and having fun.
And dodging surfers that are in her way. Two years ago she would have ran over that surfer. But now, she calmly adjusts her line and goes around.
So stoked to surf with Inaba-san today! I was surprised to see him out in the dark this morning.
And I was stoked to see him still ripping! We use to compete in the JPSA back in the early 1990’s. Now his son Reo surfs competes with my nephews. That’s so cool.
Some people take surfing too seriously these days. But surfing supposed to be fun like this. Look at that Ayaka-san smile!
Thank you Neal for the photos. Super stoked to connect with you for the past 30 years.
Life at Bowls…
