surfing with Komiya-san yesterday was so fun. he’s been surfing for 18 years and is still so excited on getting better. i saw him doing some super nice turns on super nice waves.
the take off shot with diamond head in the background. a nice photo for every first time surfer in hawaii. it’s like me riding a wave with mt. fuji in the background in japan. just so special.
even after 18 years of surfing, Komiya-san wants to get better so i was giving him some advise. keep your knees bent and push off the bottom turn. once you set up the perfect bottom turn, everything else will fall into place. good surfing dude!
and always good to see bowls locals out every single day no matter what. Makana is one of the few that enjoys the waves from knee high to double overhead every single day of the year out at bowls.
and Makana’s twin brother Nainoa surfing every single day out there too. cool brothers.
hey Komiya-san, good surfing! i was so happy to see you paddling back out after every wave so happy. hope to see you again in hawaii and remember to keep your knees bent and keep on surfing. aloha!
