F-1 FREEDOM

24

Since there is a contest at Bowls all week, I have to find somewhere else to surf.  Went out this morning looking around for a nice wave with not too many surfers out.

On the way out getting greeted by a pod of dolphins.  They look so beautiful weaving in and out of the boat wake.

I had my surfboard and foil board on the boat.  Kind of wanted some excitement so guess what I chose?  It’s been so long since I foiled that I was thinking I’d probably forgot how.

On my first wave, I was going so fast that it was pretty freaky.  Surfing and snowboarding is fast, but foiling is like Formula 1 racing.  I felt like Lewis Hamilton.  I should have wore a helmet today.

After the first wave, things came back quickly.  Everything started to  feel so light and so free.

Had so much fun today that I’m already thinking about doing the exact same thing tomorrow.  FREEDOM!

KIRBY FUKUNAGA
ハワイで生まれ育ち、プロサーファー、フォイラー、スキンダイバー、カメラマンの肩書きを持ち、ウォーターマンとして、海で多くの時間を過ごし、海から多くのモノをもらいながら生活しています。彼が伝えようとしていることは、海がある生活は僕らを豊かにしてくれるということ。そして、自分だけではなく、いろいろなことをみんなにシェアし、人生を楽しむということ。現在は、ハワイでプライベートサーフィンガイドを主催。
カービー福永のハワイサーフィンガイド
https://go-naminori.com/kirbyhawaiisurfingguide